I have just purchased a caboose, former C-90 that was one of the bay window caboose conversions of the Pullman Troop Sleepers. It has been kept in remarkably good shape. The bunks were removed and it has no Trucks but other than that it is original. It will be moved later this summer to my private land. In the meantime I am going to see if I can locate a pair of Allied Full Cushion trucks but not holding my breath. There is one small fist sized gash in the side of the car body and the wooden steps are deteriorated to almost ruin so they will need replacement wood. That plus a paint job will make her like new again. This pic shows what it looked like back years ago and will be how I will paint it again...

Vince in Northern Maine


https://flic.kr/p/upVjKF

Wonderful save, Vince! By all means, a worthy acquisition considering so little BAR remains intact and is weeping away on a daily basis.

Dick from mid-Maine

Did troop sleepers have an electrical system?

I'm not totally sure that they all had electrical systems. Mine does but that could've been installed when it was acquired from the railroad.

As built, troop sleepers had batteries (in boxes inside the cars, as I recall) and underframe-mounted, belt-drive generators driven off pulleys on the axle centers. The lighting was 32 volts DC.

Once the cars were sold for post-war railroad service, they were modified, usually quite heavily (like those BAR cabooses). Some roads made few, if any, modifications to cars used as work train bunk cars; the WM had some that were virtually stock, and one of these was preserved (at Union Bridge, Md., I think).

Howard P.

Weight of one Allied Full Cushion truck is 9800 lbs.

Howard P.

It has been a long road! Check out the date when I started this thread. It was all worth it in the end, as it is finally on my land. The saga began when I purchased land, then went looking for a caboose to make into a home. The first purchase was a MEC center cupola steel caboose. That was a no go because it was too tall. Cutting it into pieces to transport was not acceptable and the owner graciously refunded my money. I found the troop sleeper the next day, but it took months to even find a contractor and I went through 3 before I had success. First guy was the one who placed it so I thought he would be the guy for the job. Turns out he had mental issues and was incapable of moving a truck much less my caboose. Second guy didn't have the equipment he thought he did and was unable. Finally, third guy who moves homes and camps was able to listen to my suggestion. He placed a custom hitch on one end and axles and wheels on the other and towed it to my new place. No crane needed. I am so excited to finally be done with phase 1. The caboose was 6K and the move was 4K so I am pleased. Others have spent far more. Now this BAR troop sleeper caboose resides in the northern Maine woods! C90 is home!

Congratulations on bringing her back among the pines. This is a good save.

And some video...



http://youtu.be/vK4NzN6Q6qI

Vince, I really like your road conversion idea and have a few questions.
Did you use a tensioned center pin ?
Would you mind providing greater details ?
Can you post a few more detailed pictures of your road conversion ?
There are always posts on how expensive road moves are and how the expense of a road move often causes an item to make it's final move in a dumpster. You have a great idea and one that may be adaptable to many more types of cars than may appear with a casual look at your photo's.
I was once told by a road move contractor that I contacted about moving a wooden truss rod dining car (that many here think is the greatest thing since zippers) that if we didn't use him we would have firewood. There's no such thing as the unsolvable problem. It appears you too have silenced the pessimist's.

Great job !

For the rear wheels it was 2 custom axles. We opted for outrigger style placement of the actual wheelsets in order to keep the height below 13'6", the legal max height in Maine. For Mycenaean short trip of 25 miles on rural roads I would've been given an additional 6 inches if I needed it since the load was not reducible in height. As it was it was just under the 13'6" limit. For attachments, there were two metal I-beams welded and screwed onto the underside of the car to support the axles on the edges. Holes were drilled in the centersill, and large U bolts were used to secure them in the middle. Two axles were used, and they were dual wheels on each side of the axles for a total of eight wheels in the rear. The front hitch was a totally custom job, built on site And screwed and welded into place around the coupler to avoid having to cut it off. A special lift rig with its own motor was used to connect the hitch, and that connected onto the traditional semi rig using a kingpin. It was not without difficulty, as this car was very heavy and he was going to little too fast during the first leg of the trip. He had a small bump and part of the hitch broke and had to be re-welded to continue the journey the next day. Once he realized he needed more reinforcement rest of the trip went smoothly.

https://flic.kr/ps/98Z94


Here are some photos

Congrats for living the dream!

Rob

Congrats on figuring out a solution. Do you plan on putting trucks back under the car and setting it on a piece of track? Looks like it will make a fair-sized "building" for a "caboose."

I wanted to get some Allied Full Cushion trucks, but have been unable to source them. Other than the trucks there is nothing keeping this from being complete and unaltered in regards to underframe from when it last road the rails.

Plans are to construct a foundation made of railroad ties and have end joints that overlap. There will be an access door made on one side and a few vent plugs that can be removed to promote airflow in the springs.

Vince. :)