I used "gauntlet" style with a 4 inch cuff. It's amazing how exposed a 2 inch cuff leaves you when reaching for that hard to reach valve on top or on the side of the boiler. A long sleeve cotton shirt is not much protection.

Yeah, as I recall when I worked there the pops on the two Vulcans were set at 150#. I think it's the same tho they got new boilers when Shop Services rebuilt them back in the 1980's. Albert #3 (now retired and on display) ran at 160#, Jennie K (retired and recently sold to Garner Holt) ran at 135#
The 10# listing was a typo on the old CPLERR site that never got corrected before the site crashed. Too bad , as it was fairly active at one time, but we got spammed so bad that we lost the forums and the photo section, and were never able to bring it back. The site's owner has moved on, and a couple of attempts to restore it have not gone very far. There is a couple of us that have the photo files from the site, so most of that information has been saved.

If you look at the photo that I posted, you don't have to reach very far on these locomotives backheads. As I recall you could reach everything from the engineer's seat without moving . Remember these (other than Albert) were originally saddletank locos that were intended for single person operation.

The deer skin gloves that class I railroads issue to train and engine service employees (last pair I got was from a vending machine in the BNSF diesel shop) work great on steam power, and last a very long time (longer with better care).

If you're really firing like a maniac, or working on a filthy hog, welding gloves are better, and last forever. They also work great for giving hand signals, can be seen for at least a quarter mile.

Much of the world lives on $1 a day and often in many parts of the world the fireman is without gloves and simply uses a old rag, sometimes dampened, when handling hots and otherwise is working bare handed.

I buy "Forney" brand light welding gloves, either on line or at the local hardware store in the welding section. Item : 55199 available on their website also.
They have a nice long gauntlet cuff, leather backs, and I get about 4 or 5 days running with them before they get down graded to oiling duty.

This is the CP&LE back in 1987. A lot of what you see is still SOP. They don't allow the crews to take on water the old fashion way anymore, they use a hose that attaches to the tender tank. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JioIy5bRd8&t=2s

I prefer cotton mill gloves. They are much better at heat insulation than leather gloves--except when they get wet. Yes, they will wear out faster, but not by much over leather.

https://www.magidglove.com/Magid-Heater ... ves-1.aspx

One school of thought actually favors using rags or cotton waste instead of gloves in engine service. The thinking is, if you get scalded, you can toss the rag aside in a second. With gloves, you’d have several long, painful moments trying to remove them as they cook your hands.

The ones I've been firing with for eleven years are Red Star mill gloves sold at http://www.brookvilleglove.com/our-brands/red-star
They are a type of gauntlet used in mills to handle hot iron and steel and have been made since the 1880's in Pennsylvania. They last long, breathe, are flexible and I've never had a burn while wearing a pair. They also look great.

It is not accessible from Denmark because of course we are a hotbed of international crime.

Probably a typo - they recommend it as good for STEAL workers...... seriously, doesn't anybody literate edit web sites any more?

I think other nations are also embarassed by your success in the Hygge industry, and wish we could do the same. It's easier to cut ties and hide.

My suggestion would be to try a welding supply shop. they will have more insulated & leather gloves of every type and cuff length than you can shake a stick at and Far more comfortable than anything from a hard wear store.