Gentlemen,

AGES ago, after migrating back east, I visited car men / painters at Steamtown and Strasburg re: coatings suitable for use on metals in more humid climates. From those discussions, we learned about Ben Moore’s P82 Rust Converter. I recall the recommendation, “…apply P82 to metal after good surface prep and forgot about rust in your lifetime…”

We tried P82 and found it spot on. The product could be rolled, sprayed or brushed on metal after good surface prep, prior to priming. It came out cream colored, turned blue and dried black. It could be top coated in 30 to 60 minutes. It would do the job, last for years, great stuff. We used P82 in addition to other Super Spec (or “Ironclad”) coatings, especially in areas susceptible to moist conditions. Easy clean-up, low VOCs, worked great.

With supply running low, we checked our local Ben Moore jobber. Wouldn’t ya know – he said they don’t make P82 anymore. They had COROTECH Rust Arrestor V180-00.

Before springing $90 / jug for COROTECH, we want to check for reviews / recommendations from our esteemed membership regarding suitable P82 replacements or similar products for metal application / preservation.

Many thanks for any recommendations / products you may want to share.

J K

I bought Corotech when I couldn't find Ospho. As an experiment, I applied a sample to some rust spots on the roof of my car a neighbor had created when trying to remove a couple trees (long story). I was pleased with the results, but it hasn't been there more than a couple months so far so I don't yet know how well it will stand the test of time. It is not inexpensive...... hoping for good results. I did notice that if left in the jug it will settle out on the shelf.

POR-15 was used for the chicken wire and other rust-prone spots during the restoration of the F3 painted as DL&W 663 up in Scranton. Required respirator/fresh air, even though it was brushed on, and was particular as to primer used and timing of spraying. Here's the link:

http://www.por15.com/

POR-15 is the stuff tractor and motorcycle guys use to seal their gas tanks when they are totally rotted out. Never tried it myself other then to model water on a model railroad, works good for that as long as you don't go over 1/4 thick. If you do it gets a bit hot and will melt through foam insulation board in a hurry leaving a pile of toxic goo on the floor.

Yeah, we're trying to end around coatings with high VOC concentrations – DuPont Imron, Sherwin Williams two-part epoxy mixes, etc. are excellent products, but personal protection is required. Back in the 80s, we enjoyed oil-based Ironclad coatings. They could take abuse and stay put. They were replaced by Super Spec (another oil based Ben Moore Product) which has perform well on several jobs. No chalking, cracking, or rust after half dozen years of northeast weather. The Rust Converter was salty and added an extra step to the job, but it meant not hassling with a repaint. That extra security was nice.

JK

just wondering if you had considered Rust Bullet as an alternative? The folks restoring Santa Fe 2926 have been using this product, and from everything that I have read it is working out well for them. It is not cheap though, 5 gallons will set you back $700

https://www.rustbullet.com/advantage/re ... f-the-2926

I do some commercial painting work. Did a couple jobs in Pennsylvania a year or so ago. One problem we had is PA and other NE states have some very strict "hazardous" material requirements. Some of the products we wanted to use could not be shipped or purchased in PA.

We could buy the products in say, Virginia, throw them in our truck and bring them in. We just couldn't buy them in PA.

There are some very high dollar paint products out there that will do amazing things. High dollar is somewhere around $400 a gallon. Think of elevated water storage tanks for example. The money is in the labor and the access to the work area. The paint turns out to be a small percentage of the total cost.

Part of the issue is the paint manufacturer's want you (purchaser) to be "certified" on how to handle the material. For example, you are supposed to have an expert fit you for a resperator. You have to have a medical professional check your lung capacity. How do you properly dispose of excess materials, and more importantly, clean up materials (solvents). This stuff is not water based. It's liability.

Try to find a sales rep (not the store guy) who wants to help you. They have access to a lot more products than the store guys do.

Try to find a painting contractor who may want to help you out. Sherwin Williams top of the line acrylic wall paint goes for about $45 a gallon in the store. Bigger painter (and I am one) get it for less than $20.