Thanks to those that responded on 'interchange' and by email to my last question regarding hardboard. (An aside--if I hadn't posted my email address, I wouldn't have gotten some good information and leads).

Georgia Pacific was the most helpful (are you reading this Masonite Division of International Paper???)--unfortunately, we are not in a position to purchase a semitruck load (technically, I was told 1/2 a flatbed) of the longer length just to get the 12-15 pieces needed for the project--so we will need to work with some (visible?) joints.

My question is: Can hardboard be worked with like sheetrock? That is, can the joints be taped and mudded and still hold with the flexing inherent in the cars structure? Is it better to just work with a flexible caulking to try to hide the seam? One suggestion received was to 'lap join' two pieces--can this be feather sanded to a point that the primer and paint coats will hide the seam?

Anyone with experience or even ideas--my thanks again!

'doc' lewis

Heber Valley Railroad
utweyesguy@aol.com

> My question is: Can hardboard be worked with
> like sheetrock? That is, can the joints be
> taped and mudded and still hold with the
> flexing inherent in the cars structure? Is
> it better to just work with a flexible
> caulking to try to hide the seam? One
> suggestion received was to 'lap join' two
> pieces--can this be feather sanded to a
> point that the primer and paint coats will
> hide the seam?

> Anyone with experience or even ideas--my
> thanks again!

> 'doc' lewis

I have used "hardboard", or masonite in the restoration of GM&O passenger car "Abraham Lincoln" at the Museum of Transport. Because this material changes length and width with temperature changes, we cut the hardboard short at the joints. Then we cut hardboard strips to use as batten boards over the joints. The hardboard can change shape, and not get buckled up, or have the screws holding it pulled out. I do not think that hardboard would be stable enough for what you want. Good Luck.


jim1522@aol.com

"We cut hardboard strips to use as batten boards over the joints."

A 1937 CN lightweight coach I worked on had hardboard wainscoting in 20-foot lengths, with the joints battened in this fashion with strips of aluminum. When I replaced some with 8-foot lengths I just added more battens, not being greatly concerned with authenticity. The railroad masked screwheads in the middle of the runs with putty, and I did the same using automotive glazing putty. You might get away with using this material to cover a joint in the panels if it were located over a rib of the carbody. If there is a lot of flexing or shrinking, you would have to use a paintable caulk, but that could not be sanded smooth.

It might help to remember that when the seats are in, a visitor or passenger will never be able to see more than one of these joints, and it may be possible to locate the joints where they will be obscured by the seatbacks, depending on how the seats rotate.

Aarne H. Frobom
The Steam Railroading Institute
P. O. Box 665
Owosso, Michigan 48867


froboma@mdot.state.mi.us

One of our members (Pacific Locomotive Assoc) found a product called MDF which is used in building construction that comes in sheets up to 15 ft in length. This material would take a finish similar to masonite. He brought a sample of the material, 1/4 inch thick that seems to be flexible enough for heavyweight ceilings. Check with a local building supply company.


dmann@coastside.net