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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:14 pm 

Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 10:22 am
Posts: 548
Early to mid 1950s Northern Pacific Ry, western end of system.
My guess left to right, Fireman, Engineer, Switch Foreman (or Conductor)

-Hudson


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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 12:07 am 

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 8:51 pm
Posts: 2055
Location: Southern California
I suspect that what kind of service that the man was employed in made a difference. A passenger engineer might dress one way compared to a man in freight service. Also the fuel used might have an affect on the material selected -- oil burning western roads crews might have a tendency to lighter colored clothing. I was just looking at some photos of passenger 4-6-2's in a recent issue of the publication of the SPH&TS -- looks like the men were wearing a light colored shop coat.

The Pacific Electric was an electric interurban and allowed some of its motormen on passenger equipment wear hickory stripe bib overalls in certain situations. If the work assignment was in a passenger car with the controls in the vestibule or a separate cab they could wear the hickory stripe overalls, with a white shirt, tie and trainman's uniform cap. if there was no separation from the passengers, the motorman had to wear the same uniform as the conductors.

Company photos of Santa Fe engineers, particularly just after the introduction of diesels, show the engineers wearing hickory stripe overalls and shop coats.

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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 2:32 am 

Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 12:57 am
Posts: 256
Location: Sandpoint, ID
wilkinsd wrote:
Bib overalls, like a lot of other quality, durable, traditional work clothing seems to be harder and harder to find. I used to wear Oshkosh, but quit when they quit making adult sizes and moved production overseas. I've tried a lot of other brands over the years, but haven't found anything quite as durable. I'm going to order some Pointer Brand overalls from L.C. King soon, as I've heard great things about them.


I have been wearing Roundhouse bibs the last few years since Key redesigned and now does not offer button fly. Roundhouse is made in Shawanne, OK, USA for 110 yrs. My only complaint is the front pocket is not lined to protect your pocket watch. The buckle/buttons seem to not fall-off like Keys but do slip down when you wash them until they take a set.

I have found Miller Hats makes a nice stiff, tall, tapered (puffy on top) fitted denim hat. and used them the last 10+ yrs. They also have a hickory stripe. Made in USA.


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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 12:20 pm 

Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2004 4:02 pm
Posts: 1831
Location: Back in NE Ohio
John E. Rimmasch wrote:
The riding public is buying service as much as they are buying or paying for and experience. The service level, in part, determines the experience. A conductor at Disneyland, properly dress, but acting rude, short and not personable has not created the experience, even though he "looked" the part. It is my own business minded view that crew training in the way the crew handles the public is far more important than a 100% accurate costume. Now, we walk a fine line when the crew is dirty, smells bad, has offensive breath or simply does not speak or communicate well. All the training in the world, a perfect uniform and crowd found at Disneyland will not fix this. I believe that crew members should be given a variety of "clothing standards" allowing each to conform on his or her own making sure that the other public appearance issues are strictly maintained. By doing this, you have created the experience that you speak of above, David.


This triggered my memory of one of the first regular Chessie Conductors on the early Cuyahoga Valley Line trains with GTW 4070 and the Midwest Chapter consist. He was the senior passenger-qualified conductor for the division, so it was his job if he wanted it, and he often did. Mr. Personality he was decidedly not. The character of "Shack" from Emperor of the North comes as close as anyone to his personality. Half of his teeth were rotted out from chewing tobacco; evidence of that showed in the form of brown streaks staining the front of his unironed dress shirt, the tail of which usually was not completely tucked in. He regularly deliberately got into trouble so he could get suspended and collect on his job insurance. He once got arrested for blocking a major grade crossing with a freight train - mostly because he mouthed off to the police officers who responded to motorist complaints. The train was stopped there because of something legitimate - like the train going into emergency, but he wanted to get pulled out of service. He was a total sourpuss, and a walking ad for a lot of why passenger ridership declined after WWII. He was a totally authentic railroader, but not what ANY passenger railroad would want to put forward as an example.

A question for those involved in recreating railroading's past: Are the feds requiring your operating personnel to wear decidedly non-period authentic, high-visibility vests when working in live passenger train service? Is it even possible to get a historic exemption from such requirements?


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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 12:46 pm 

Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2004 10:13 pm
Posts: 356
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Broner Hat makes a solid pleated denim engineer's cap that isn't only comfortable and dirt cheap, but of decent enough quality to survive multiple wash cycles. We used to get them from Rocky Mountain Connection, though I've heard they may have switched vendors. This place still seems to stock them: http://www.kitterytradingpost.com/mens/hats-neckwear/caps/broner-men-s-railroad-cap They're about as perfect as you can get for pulling off that SP Western Division head-to-toe denim look.

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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 1:09 pm 

Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:06 pm
Posts: 174
Plenty of folks wore stripes.

Another Link photo. Pretty sure this guy would kick the crap out of anyone who made fun of his stripes:

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 11:31 pm 

Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 9:40 pm
Posts: 841
Employee magazines from the '20s-'40s as well as the timebooks merchants put out in some on-line cities usually had ads for work garb.


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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 1:41 am 

Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 3:25 am
Posts: 1025
One of the memories for my first extended visit to Chicago in 1971 was that many of the motormen on the "L" trains wore hickory-stripe overalls. More recently, I think the typical attire is the same as bus driver uniforms.

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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 8:01 am 

Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2010 4:22 pm
Posts: 483
Slightly off topic, but if you're bothered by slipping buckles/straps on bibs, there's an easy fix. Adjust them the way you want, then use a heavy needle and dental floss to tack through the strap right under the buckle. Tie it off on the inside of the strap where it won't show. As for the watch pocket lining, that's also easy: use fusible interfacing, some soft fabric that matches the bibs and a hot iron. It would be more nearly period-correct to stitch in the lining, but I'm more of the "if it doesn't show from a reasonable distance" persuasion.

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 Post subject: Hickory Stripe v. Denim v. Khaki!
PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:28 am 

Joined: Sun Jun 23, 2013 1:16 pm
Posts: 225
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J.B. Garrett photo

For contrast....This is an MK&T railroad engine crew at Franklin Missouri beside their passenger train. 1967.
Not a bib, stripe or Kromer in sight.... and only one man seems to have a pocket watch. One wrist watch visible.

They are changing crews. The two men on the left are engineers.... The ubiquitous leather "grip" the man is carrying is long out of favor, also. Now lots of crewmen carry 2 or 3 "bags" and have a backpack strapped over their shoulders, to boot!

Don't know why they need to carry so much "stuff"


Last edited by Bad Order on Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim v. Khaki!
PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:24 am 

Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2004 4:02 pm
Posts: 1831
Location: Back in NE Ohio
Bad Order wrote:
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J.B. Garrett photo

Now lots of crewmen carry 2 or 3 "bags" and have a backpack strapped over their shoulders, to boot!

Don't know why they need to carry so much "stuff"


The required documentation - rule books, etc. - that the companies require crews to carry is so much more now than then. Also, you never know for sure how many days you might be gone in some pools, so you need more clothes, something to entertain you during a long layover, enough food for a long round trip, things like that. The old beanery beside the railroad Y is a things of the past. Usually, the crew gets a stop at a convenience store on the way to the train or the hotel.


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 Post subject: Steam era and early diesel
PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 12:01 pm 

Joined: Sun Jun 23, 2013 1:16 pm
Posts: 225
Here are a few other MK&T enginemen photos.... to show the style of clothing they wore around here.
The center photo~ the man is wearing bib overalls from J.C. Penny. Me, personally, I wear Key brand overalls when I wear them to work at the railroad.

I think the idea of wearing overalls stemmed from the fact that you wore them to protect your good street clothes underneath.. kept the grease, oil and filth off them. You took them off at the end of your run and went about your business in nice, clean clothes.

We had a big locomotive shop here in Parsons. Lots of employees. They were provided with a building known as the "change house". The mens' clothing and boots were covered in grease, oil and grime after a day at work, and their wives would beat them over the head with a rolling pin if they tracked any of that in the house.

Thus, the change house is where they'd leave their work boots and overalls....


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File comment: This shows some early 1960's MK&T enginemen dress style....
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File comment: This is 1958~ a retiring MK&T man.
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File comment: This is a 1945 photograph. The engineer was my grandparents landlord. I met him when he was a white haired old man late in his life.
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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:22 pm 

Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 5:52 pm
Posts: 559
Location: Apple Valley, Minnesota
I think it was Howard P who mentioned Thompson Cap Company,

Here's what a well dressed New Haven Railroad man would look like using Thompson Cap Company garb. Only thing missing in his "outfit" is the denim binders that would be snapped around the bottom of his pant legs to keep those britches from getting caught on something. This fellow is wearing the summer version of the cap and jumper, as it was called. It's hard to discern in this small photo but the summer jumper shown in the photo had small blue pinstripes. The jumper was almost a portable office with multiple pockets for such things as way bills, consist lists, pocket watch, etc. The winter version was dark blue denim with black corduroy collars and cuffs with one version having a flannel liner.

How about this nattily dressed PRR engineer and fireman in a Shorpy photo? Note the shined shoes indicating this must have been an inaugural run of the train or or a POTUS special or something like that. Also note the bandana around their necks.

Thanks!


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File comment: Well dressed New Haven man
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File comment: Shorpy photo
PRR The Federal Washington DC 1929-R.jpg
PRR The Federal Washington DC 1929-R.jpg [ 277.8 KiB | Viewed 28362 times ]

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Jim Vaitkunas
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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:13 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 2:34 am
Posts: 544
Location: Granby, CT but formerly Port Jefferson, NY (LIRR MP 57.5)
Great pictures, Jim!

It's interesting to note that the address given in the Thompson Cap Company advertisement, 1420 State Street, is right next to the NYNH&H Cedar Hill Yard:

https://www.google.com/maps/place/1420+State+St,+New+Haven,+CT+06511/@41.3222711,-72.8970385,17z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x89e7d75fdbdd345f:0x8ad07327a8039edd

I lived in New Haven for a few years when I was in graduate school, so I'm familiar with the area. The yard is still there but Thompson Cap is long since gone.

-Philip Marshall



Jim Vaitkunas wrote:
I think it was Howard P who mentioned Thompson Cap Company,

Here's what a well dressed New Haven Railroad man would look like using Thompson Cap Company garb. Only thing missing in his "outfit" is the denim binders that would be snapped around the bottom of his pant legs to keep those britches from getting caught on something. This fellow is wearing the summer version of the cap and jumper, as it was called. It's hard to discern in this small photo but the summer jumper shown in the photo had small blue pinstripes. The jumper was almost a portable office with multiple pockets for such things as way bills, consist lists, pocket watch, etc. The winter version was dark blue denim with black corduroy collars and cuffs with one version having a flannel liner.



Last edited by philip.marshall on Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Hickory Stripe v. Denim-Image v. Reality?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:00 pm 

Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 8:28 am
Posts: 2727
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
There was once a time, even within my lifetime, when just about every town and city had at least one traditional men's clothing store that sold work clothes. You know the store, usually in a storefront downtown, with the high tin ceilings, the heater suspended from the ceiling, wood shelves lining the narrow, but long showroom. Usually an old NCR cash register was at the counter. Sadly, those times are gone, but the internet gives us access to a variety of vendors.

This has been a good thread, thanks for all of the participation. Here is a link round-up of various mentioned makers:

-L.C. King Mfg. Co. (Makers of Pointer Brand Overalls, Barn Coats, Chore Coats and Work Jeans)
https://www.pointerbrand.com

-Round House Brand (Bib Overalls)
http://www.round-house.com

-Key Brand (Bib Overalls, Work Shirts, and Hickory Striped Work Shirts)
http://www.keyapparel.com/default.aspx

-Filson (Mackinaw Coats)
http://www.filson.com

-River Junction Trading Co. (Mackinaw Coats, Engineer's Hats and Sleeve Protectors)
http://www.riverjunction.com

-Miller Hats (Fitted Engineer Hats in both denim and hickory striped)
http://www.millerhats.com/catalog/index.php?catText=Caps%20-%20Rail%20Road%20&catID=95

-Broner Railroad Hats (Engineer Hats)
http://www.kitterytradingpost.com/mens/hats-neckwear/caps/broner-men-s-railroad-cap

-Stormy Kromer (Winter Kromer Cap)
http://www.stormykromer.com

-Cotton Kromer Caps (From the Working Person's Store)
http://workingperson.com/brands/kromer-hats-caps.html

Does the new Thompson Cap Co. still have any stock left?

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"They love him, gentlemen, and they respect him, not only for himself, for his character, for his integrity and judgment and iron will, but they love him most of all for the enemies he has made."


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