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Pounding lead https://www.rypn.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10492 |
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Author: | Jack Anderson [ Thu Aug 05, 2004 9:08 pm ] |
Post subject: | Pounding lead |
Who knows how to put the lead into wheel centers for tramming? The books just say "pound it in". I used Bondo once, but it is a little soft for an accurate center punch mark. nnry3@mwpower.net |
Author: | Don Wirth [ Thu Aug 05, 2004 9:38 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Pounding lead |
We made a small mold by cutting a center in the end of a steel bar in a lathe that was just slightly larger than the center in the axle end, then melting/pouring the lead into that to make a part. THEN you can pound it into the end of the axle. It doesn't take too much to pound it in, but at the same time it's tight. Be sure to take it out when you're done, especially if you run at mainline speeds. One of those popping out at speed could do some damage to someone. frisco1522@sbcglobal.net |
Author: | Robert Yuill [ Fri Aug 06, 2004 8:53 am ] |
Post subject: | do not pound lead |
Using lead in the wheel centers does indeed work well, but how to get it out as Jack asked is the question. I used to use this method but soon realized the error in my ways. So often to remove the lead a chisel is used to chip or pry the stuck lead out of the countersink, this practice can gouge the surface of the countersink and ruin it's accuracy, I recall Southern 4501 had to have it's centers recut due to this. A method I have used successfully is to attach a square piece of clean and flat sheet metal, or flashing, over the wheel center with good old duct tape! Adhesion is good and I have never been concerned with the marked center moving due to loose tape. If you do use the lead center method, do be sure to remove them, they can be dangerous projectiles. HMSC histmachry@aol.com |
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