The previous postings on painting rusty railcars seemed to give little mention of rust converting paints, like EXTENDRust. I'm told these have phosphoric acid as an ingredient, which converts ferrous oxide to ferrous sulphate, plus some sort of sealant, like an acrylic. Some are water-based and others solvent-based. Personally, I've had good luck with some of these products on small projects, and wonder why they weren't mentioned in the threads?

Any comments on their effectiveness, use and cost in larger quantities?

ryarger1@nycap.rr.com

Geez Bob, I could swear i mentioned rust converter somewhere but maybe I only meant to.

A gallon goes a long way so expense be hanged. Auto body shop supply houses should stock it. I think I saw some at WT Tool also.

We use quite a bit of it but not on wearing areas. It will penetrate to some extent but won't convert a half inch of flaky stuff.

Another old trick is to use Great Stuff foam caulk for filling in holes to skim out with bondo.

Dave

lathro19@idt.net

> The previous postings on painting rusty
> railcars seemed to give little mention of
> rust converting paints, like EXTENDRust. I'm
> told these have phosphoric acid as an
> ingredient, which converts ferrous oxide to
> ferrous sulphate, plus some sort of sealant,
> like an acrylic. Some are water-based and
> others solvent-based. Personally, I've had
> good luck with some of these products on
> small projects, and wonder why they weren't
> mentioned in the threads?

> Any comments on their effectiveness, use and
> cost in larger quantities?

A paint that I have used and has been recommended by others is Hammerite. It comes in an aresol can at a local hardware store near me. While not cheap ($14.00 a can a few years ago), it works great for small areas to be protected. Just knock off the flakes and other loose debris and spray on. It bites into the rust and must react with it somehow. And like the name implies, it gives a slight hammertone/metalic finish. Another is Rustoleum rust primer from Home Depot which comes in a can. Same instructions as the Hammerite (need to rough up surfaces but be covered with a top coat). Thought I'd pass it along.


http://www.gsmr.com/great.htm

> A paint that I have used and has been
> recommended by others is Hammerite. It comes
> in an aresol can at a local hardware store
> near me. While not cheap ($14.00 a can a few
> years ago), it works great for small areas
> to be protected. Just knock off the flakes
> and other loose debris and spray on. It
> bites into the rust and must react with it
> somehow. And like the name implies, it gives
> a slight hammertone/metalic finish. Another
> is Rustoleum rust primer from Home Depot
> which comes in a can. Same instructions as
> the Hammerite (need to rough up surfaces but
> be covered with a top coat). Thought I'd
> pass it along.
The product I mentioned, Conquest, is a phosphoric acid based product that is white when applied and turns black after it reacts with rust. We have had success with it as a primer even under Rustoleum enamal.

ironbartom@aol.com

>
At the RR Museum of New England we have used with good success a product called Rust Destroyer made by Advanced Protective Coatings. It is a combination of a Rust converter and a rusty metal primer in one product. It is applied like regular paint after removing any loose material though we have not attempted to apply it using spray equipment.

Hal2415@aol.com