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| Replicating a wooden crossing gate. https://www.rypn.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19577 |
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| Author: | greenwichlirr [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 10:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | Replicating a wooden crossing gate. |
I'm currently building an antique crossing signal display in my back yard. Full Scale, full size. My crossing gate mechanism is a GRS 2-A Semaphore Conversion. It was originally a sidewalk mech, so it does not have the full gate brackets like your typical Model 10 Crossing unit. It simply has a semaphore blade mount modified with a counterwieght which held (at it's retirement) a 6 foot fiberglass gate. My goal is to build a new gate of wood (painted black & white). I have a WRRS Catalog Sheet which gives dimensions of a small size gate that would work on the 2-A mech, so I'm covered on the measurements. My main question, however, is what kind of wood to use? What can I use that won't warp or bend after a few years out in the weather? What kind of painting instructions would you recommend? Have any of you ever had to fabricate an original-looking gate for a display? Any information or tips would be greatly appreiciated. Chip Ordway Greenwich, NY |
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| Author: | Dennis Storzek [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 3:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replicating a wooden crossing gate. |
Chip, I actually used to fabricate gate arms occasionally back in the seventies when I worked for the Chicago Transit Authority, but I can't answer your question on the proper materials for longevity; we used to make them out of clear Ponderosa Pine, which rots quickly, and the painters used to paint them white without any primer, then stripe them in red. It really didn't make any difference, because they usually were broken long before they could rot away, which is the reason everyone went to fiberglass. For what you want to do, I'd recommend clear Redwood, and select the pieces yourself, rejecting any that contain the lighter colored sapwood, which has nowhere near the rot resistance of the heartwood. Redwood will have the about the same texture, hardness, and density as the different species of pine that were traditionally used. I can't recommend paint, although Urethane marine paint that Kelly Anderson mentioned in the discussion of the outdoor boxcar display sounds promising. I assume since this is a pedestrian gate, the arm is simply two tapered boards bolted together at the tip, with no spacers. The longer gate arms had cast aluminum X shaped spacers at points in their length, and these would be hard to find these days, so you luck out in that respect. Good luck on the project. |
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| Author: | Scott Kwiatkowski [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 4:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replicating a wooden crossing gate. |
CHip, I would reccomend a good oil based primer, Ben Moore would be my choice. Then equal quality oil top coat. Remeber that if you drill any holes that they should be primmed throughly. I would also reccomend that any fasteners that come in contact with the wood should be stainless steel. I made a set of wood station signs using just #1 clear pine about 12 years ago using the painting method I described and they still have no problem with the paint. I used pine because the signs where fastened to the station and did not having to worry about warping. I am not sure what wood to use that is stable. Scott |
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| Author: | Dave [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 7:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replicating a wooden crossing gate. |
If you want to make only one to last a long time, I would use plastic lumber. dave |
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