The following is an advertisement for a product called Rust Bullet and its use on the restoration of 4-8-4 #2926:

http://www.rustbullet.com/Products/Automotive/train.htm

Not sure if showing this ad is allowed under RyPN guidelines. But the photos show the products application to the tender of the big Northern. Wonder if anyone from the New Mexico Steam Locomotive & Railroad Historical Society has any comment as to how it all worked out?

Les

I am sure there must be product out there that would be right for tender restoration. Personally I would like to know if there is any "miracle" product for the inside of tenders to stop and prevent further corrosion. The visible outside of a tender is a concern, but the real damage comes from within the tender. Unfortunately I don't think there is any hope for most tenders at this late stage in the game. The years have taken there tolls and the condensation that gets trapped inside has rusted most tenders to the point of unsafe usability. Different form in a lot of ways, but similar to boilers. They only last so long and then you have to get serious about rebuilding or replacing them.

Having always been around smaller locomotives, this Northern in the link is beyond my comprehension is size and weight. Kind of like "Land of the Giants". Cheers, John.

The Rust Bullet has worked well. The tender is in the process of being prepped for its finished coat of paint. We also had a chance to sample the same thing in black, but it oxidized fairly quickly. The"silver" finish you see is the cured Rust Bullet.

There is really nothing I can think of off the top of my head that would be a cure all for the interior of a tender. As you well know, anything that can get into the strainers can cause headache. Anything that could go back into solution would be even worse...

I haven't tried it, but have had APEXIOR paint recommended for that application.

dave

First the water side interior of the tender must be cleaned and hopefully down to metal. One method would be to use a Gardner Denver
cleaning system. I think I have the name correct. Gardner Denver products use very high pressure water delivery system where the head spins/turns in a random pattern. The head is suspended in the tank then everyone gets out. If you were to stay in the tank it would be the same as being in a giant garbage disposal. The Gardner Denver system can deliver up to 50,000 PSI pressure and will clean everything to a dull gray metal.Gardner Denver company products are used in ship yards to clean the interiors or shipboard tanks.

I have read of many tank coatings most of which are epoxy based. I don't have any experience with these however I can imagine that whatever is used the base must be clean and sound. I have also heard of boiler apexior being used to coat tender cisterns.

I have seen a poorly applied epoxy based paint in a tender. It was the source of a lot of headaches due to clogged tank strainers...

There are many types of interior coatings that have been applied to tank cars for years. Before selecting the coating to be used, you will need to have a sample fo the water tested, as its corrosive components vary greatly thorughout the US. The coating will last for many years. I have seen tank cars with coatings that are overtwenty years old and the coatings are still very good. Most coatings can be touched up by brush application if mechanical damage takes place. As these tenders are quite rigid, flaking should not be an issue. Today's tank cars do flex a great bit when the are loaded and the coatings do not fail. The downside to many of these coatings is that you must blast the surface to prep it and many require heat to cure them; however, there are coatings that only require air curing and they should work for water storage.

Orange Empire sprayed the VC #2 tank interior with Line-X bedliner coating. I was concerned with the residuals creating foaming in the boiler, but evidently there was no problem. Joan and Linc are now surveying the UP 2-8-2 boiler for possible operation.

Chris Allan

Interesting tale about Gardner Denver water blasting. Sounds like a good idea for some applications one might run across. I think the problem lies, from my perspective, is that most tenders are so rotten by the time you prepped the metal for any of these great finishes you would already be through the existing metal. I think it would be a good investment for most rebuilds too build new tanks and then use some of these coatings.

Years ago when I was welding for a living we used to build a lot of ocean going cranes and winches. I sometimes worked as a painter and had too use this nasty mix of powder and liquid to prime any of the sea going product we made. It was a pain too use, but government specs demanded it. If any product can withstand the ocean it should handle inland water.

Have often wondered about the feasibility of spraying fibreglass type material on an existing tank and use the rotted metal as a form. Probably wouldn't work well, still best too start over. After seeing the stainless tanks that Strasburg had built, I think that approach is still best. Build a better wheel, then paint it with "miracle paint". Cheers, John.

Re fiberglass-I helped on a tender job years ago. Once the cleaning was done, I think we fabricated and installed new baffles where necessary. After that, I think we primed with Red Lead, took care of leaks with fiberglass (the liquid that dries), and finished with Apexior. Note: the fiberglass has nasty fumes-adequate ventilation is a must.

John - by red lead do you mean the common red rusty metal primer we are all familiar with? I haven't actually seen real red lead for sale in a very long time. I don't even think it is made in the US or available, except perhaps as finish coat on toys imported from China.

dave

LOL!