We are beginning the process of restoring one of our ex. DL&W MU trailers. There are a few questions I'd like to ask here before we get started.
The masonite ceilings have water damage and need to be replaced. In the clerestory there is a 1" strip of sheet metal with sheet metal screws which holds these in place across the width of the car. There is also a crown molding running the length of the car on each side of the clerestory. Does anyone have advice for getting this out? Also, it appears to be one piece. Can anyone confirm whether it is one piece or installed in sections?

Thank you,
Stephen Piwowarski
Berkshire Scenic Railway Museum
Lenox, MA

I seriously doubt that the masonite (or swedish hardboard as it was origanally known) was installed as one piece. It was most likely installed with divider bars which were screwed to the ceiling bars you mentioned. On the positive side, masonite is still available in different thicknesses. Two versions are available. Hardened and standard. The hardened, 1/8" thick, is most likely what was used because it wouldn't sag when used for ceiling panels. Not bad since I am going from memory of managing a home improvement business back in the '70s! We used to sell hardened, 1/8" to guys for ceilings in their vans. Unfortunately, the van ceiling is wider than the 4' the panels came in so they had to but two and mount them length wise across the ceiling get coverage. But they would use the divider bar I mentioned to hold the panels together where they met. So what you are attmepting is acyually putting a ceiling in a really big van!

Good luck on this new project!

Later!
Mr. Ed

There was a thread on this subject a couple of years ago complete with links to suppliers... J.David

My understanding is that Masonite no longer is made wider than 4 feet. In the old days it was available up to 8 feet wide. That means you are going to have seams in your new ceiling. Most restorations have a seam in the middle running the length of the car.

Thanks J. David. I'm going to check it out right now!
My apology for being unclear. It is not the masonite that runs the length of the car. Rather, it is the crown molding which supports the edges of the masonite that runs the length of the car. Each seam between masonite panels is covered with a piece of sheet steel which is then attached to some sort of stud in the clerestory with machine screws.

This is incorrect. Georgia Pacific makes many sizes for the furniture industry at their Superior, Wisconsin hardboard plant.

From GP's own website:
"It is good to know when you specify Superwood® hardboard, you are working with the best. Our skins are light-colored, moisture-resistant and available in nominal thicknesses ranging from 1/10" to 1/4", widths ranging from 48" to 66" inches, and lengths up to 16'. "

The "Masonite" moniker comes from the Masonite Company, who currently manufactures doors (and possibly windows). The original material is Agasote Millboard. Most model railroaders will recognize the successor product - Homasote. Essentially the same stuff with a different name, Homasote is "green" since it is recylced and may be available in the thickness and dimensions you need. If not, GP hardboard will prove an excellent substitute.

I actually acquired enough GP hardboard for an entire office car ceiling, cut to size, and at no cost except for shipping by talking to the right person at GP (been about 10 years ago now). Explaining the project to one of the marketing folks and how hard it was to find material and she was sympathetic. I actually offered just to buy 5x9 standard size master sheets and cut them myself, but after discussing the project, they were happy to contact the plant and have the stuff cut once I gave her a list of the different sizes. The cuts were all clean and finish grade, so I am assuming they provide this service for furniture manufacturers in larger lot sizes.

I initially tried to find availability through the local home improvement stores and even contacted their buyers. The buyer for Lowe's put me in contact with the GP hardboard sales lady who was helpful to me. You could try contacting the Superior plant management and see if they can help.

Best,
Mike

BTW, getting the screws out is a pain - you should be able to break the old ceiling panels and get most of it out. If it is similar in construction to other Pullman heavyweights, then you can get to the bottom end of the screws and use a grinder to grind them off flush. The heat and vibration from the grinding will generally make it possible to get the 1-2 turns needed the get the rest of the screw out. Be advised that you will likely run into Salamander asbestos impregnated insulation blankets in the ceiling and they will probably be attached with wire studs tack welded to the roof plates and steel straps. I can offer more info on this if you need it.

Does anyone know about the thread that David mentioned above? I recall it, but can't seem to find using the search. If someone could link it, that would be great.

Thanks,
Stephen Piwowarski
Berkshire Scenic Railway Museum

Stephen:
The thread is: "Large Ceiling Panels-Masonite?", December 15, 2008...
J.David

Thanks for the link to the thread. I like your solution using aluminum. It seems that considering the possibility for roof leaks, that aluminum would be a good choice because it would not be damaged by water as masonite would. I think Pullman may have used aluminum themselves if the material had been available at the time.

Steve Piwowarski