Two questions concerning Alco S1 switcher with Blunt trucks:
1- In order to remove trucks is there anything to be done besides disconnecting all air lines, electrical cables and removing the safety hangers?

2-What does it take to remove a coupler? Large piece of steel bolted on botton of draft gear housing comes off with bolts. What lets the coupler shank come out.

Thanks for any help.


Gray Lackey

Good afternoon,
We own an Alco S-4 that we had to remove a truck a couple of years ago. It has the AAR switcher trucks, but I don't think it's going to make that much difference. What we did was hire a house mover to jack the engine for us. What we did to prepare was to disconnect the TM leads, safety hooks and air hoses like you mentioned. I would recommend that you mark the leads with colored wire ties, as it will make reconnecting them much simpler. Also, you may want to check the clearances between the brake cylinder and your blocking, as I understand that the Blunt truck cylinders stick out more. Another thing is you can do is unbolt and remove the steps on the end you're removing the truck from. That will save having to jack higher than necessary. Also, please jack both ends of the engine because if just one end is jacked, there is a danger of cracking the center bowl in the truck bolster. You shouldn't have to remove the coupler to remove the truck, unless there is another reason to do so. If you do have to take the coupler off, let me know, as I can probably find out more.
Leverett Fernald
DSRR

I have removed a truck from an AlCo S-2, and I'd guess an S-1 would be the same. In our situation, time was critical, as we needed the engine, and used whatever resources we could get. A traction motor locked up and we needed to change the motor.

We had access to a 50 ton truck crane. All of the electric cables, air lines, safety hangers, etc. were taken apart. The steps and end plates were taken off of the frame, but no work done to the coupler or the end handrails. The coupler was bound to the end sill edges with binders to keep it centered and keep it from swinging. The crane sling was positioned around the coupler shank. The other truck was chocked securely as possible.

The crane operator positioned the truck at 90deg to the engine, with the boom in line with the rear of the crane truck. Make sure that the hook dangles slightly (3"-4") to the "crane side" of the coupler, as when the boom takes the load it will cause it to deflect/lower itself and make the distance from the crane truck to the coupler shank longer. This allowed for a direct vertical lift.

Yes, the angle can be impressive when the frame is high enough to roll the truck out, and I can't speak about cracking or damaging anything. This may not be the optimal way to do it, but with the time and equipment parameters, it worked for us.

Thanks for the help. All mentioned has been done already in preparation. Just wanted to make sure something else wasn't lurking.

Locomotive body is moving by truck and couplers come out to fit in trailer well.

That's the reason for the draft gear question.

Just tryin my best to have everything ready when the time arrives.

Thanks all

Any other information greatly appreciated.

Gray Lackey