Here's an article that was written a few years back.

Sorry for the double post. I'm quite clueless when it comes to posting things

Branford Electric Rwy. Ass'n. - Shore Line Trolley Museum had to resort to propane torches to burn and scrape that coating off car 6618 in their collection.

Here is a link to a downloadable reference on 'polymer coatings' for the interested:

https://www.adv-polymer.com/blog/polymer-coating

AG111 is a two-part urethane, and while it comes in 'basic black' as a default, it is of course capable of being pigmented differently -- red, for example, or John Deere Green.

It might be interesting to see what terms and minimum order quantities might be quoted, as far more of this would be used even on small railroad-related projects than on an automobile or tractor.

AG111 is explicitly noted as 'brushable' and, in fact, the company recommends that you buy 1 pint of thinner per quart for best application consistency 'adjustment' -- presumably without impairing the surface integrity.

Among the products Mastercoat produces is a "complete chassis kit" which contains all their prep as well as the AG111. On the page describing this (at the bottom) is a link to technical material on AG111.

https://nomorerust.com/store/home/17-ma ... t-kit.html

Hello Overmod you are right a quart can of paint would not go far on a railroad car. AG 111 is available in gallon and 5 gallon containers. As for quantities and colors give them a call and they will work with you to accomplish your goals. I am retired but I do have some influence on how things are done.

Pat

Hello Jim
Rough it up with sanders put a a coat permanent rust sealer primer over it, then the color coat. Much less work and burning it off.

As a former house painter, let me just say that there is nothing wrong with using heat to remove paint, especially from metal surfaces. "Burn" is not a term I would use and not accurate either. Heat applied correctly will cause the paint to soften and the undersurface to heat up which will make the paint bubble and lift, thus being more easily removed. One caveat. With wood underneath the paint, heat could be destructive.

The potential problem/danger stems from exposure to the fumes emitted.

I've been cautioned against it for lead paint, with probable good cause. I'd hesitate to expose myself to too much latext fumes. I would be considerably hesitant to try and "burn off" an entire RR car's worth of any two-part polymer or "super" paint like this, even if someone showed me documentation that the fumes were perfectly harmless (as if that's likely).

Any paint removal system has its hazards. Sanding puts particles into the air and chemical strippers contain carcinogens. There is no perfect answer. Caution is always the watchword.

If the paint is not failing - don't take it off. Prep it properly and coat it

I cant even begin to think of the hazards of burning paint off in any way shape or form. That just sounds like an absolutely terrible idea. Heat gun? That's different.

This coating system is very popular for bridges. When a bridge has lead paint ,sandblasting is prohibited by law. Containment tarps are put down under the bridges. The bridge is then prepped with wire wheels grinders. 2 coats aluminum pigmented moisture cured are applied and one coat of color. The Pittsburgh Homestead high-level bridge was coated in this fashion and the result was less than 5% corrosion at the end of 14 years. The bridge is a mile-long.This coating system has seen similar success in South Carolina's coal powered generating facility near the Atlantic shoreline. Mile-long conveyor belt structures that were exposed to the salt air and coal dust corrosion at the end of 20 years showed very little signs of corrosion. This project used an epoxy intermediate coat.