does anyone know who sells 16# to 20# compromise joint bars, checked major suppliers and no one has them, not even listed in there catalogs.

Pete

For that size rail, you could probably just make your own.

But, with that said, have you tried the park train suppliers? Chance Rides comes to mind. There's a good FB page for park trains and also a yahoo group. Might try posting your question there as well.

J.R. May

I'd say that's spot on. I seriously doubt there's a market for this kind of item.

Our Museum just completed a short length of track from a 90# switch into our new "speeder shed." The 30# rail needed a compromise joint to the 90# rail. Our crack shop guys made those along with joint bars to connect the 30# stock. Get some 1/2-inch steel and cut it to size, or have a machine shop do the work. I'm assuming that with such small rails we're not talking about heavy loads or anything over 10mph.

Thanks!

Thanks for the input, making our own my be the only ticket. as 16# is no longer rolled we are switching to 20# to make the repairs to our track.

Pete

Harmer Steel, Portland, OR. (503) 286-3691

They do a lot of work with mine rail and they've even done some park train projects. If anyone knows where to get them, they will.

we ordered rail from Harmer Steel they could not find compromise joints

Joint bars for rail that small do not provide any support, just alignment. You could grind away material from the larger size bar and weld fill the old holes and then drill to match the smaller section. You may need to build up some part of the inside of the joint bar to line up the gauge side of the rail heads.

We used to have them made from plate steel and cut with a water jet machine. We'd match the fishing on normal bars on both sides, and put a bit of an S curve into it rather than square corners. It was standard practice on industry spurs back in the day, but they certainly don't pass muster with the FRA. Of course if you're joining 16# to 20#, I'm going to guess you're not under FRA jurisdiction. :)

"It was standard practice on industry spurs back in the day, but they certainly don't pass muster with the FRA."

I wouldn't be so certain about that. FRA regulations are surprisingly loose about how joint bars are fabricated.

§213.121 Rail joints.
(a) Each rail joint, insulated joint, and compromise joint shall be of a structurally sound design and dimensions for the rail on which it is applied.
(b) If a joint bar on Classes 3 through 5 track is cracked, broken, or because of wear allows excessive vertical movement of either rail when all bolts are tight, it shall be replaced.
(c) If a joint bar is cracked or broken between the middle two bolt holes it shall be replaced.
(d) In the case of conventional jointed track, each rail shall be bolted with at least two bolts at each joint in Classes 2 through 5 track, and with at least one bolt in Class 1 track.
(e) In the case of continuous welded rail track, each rail shall be bolted with at least two bolts at each joint.
(f) Each joint bar shall be held in position by track bolts tightened to allow the joint bar to firmly support the abutting rail ends and to allow longitudinal movement of the rail in the joint to accommodate expansion and contraction due to temperature variations. When no-slip, joint-to-rail contact exists by design, the requirements of this paragraph do not apply. Those locations when over 400 feet in length, are considered to be continuous welded rail track and shall meet all the requirements for continuous welded rail track prescribed in this part.
(g) No rail shall have a bolt hole which is torch cut or burned in Classes 2 through 5 track. For Class 2 track, this paragraph (g) is applicable September 21, 1999.
(h) No joint bar shall be reconfigured by torch cutting in Classes 3 through 5 track.

/s/ Larry
Lawrence G. Lovejoy, P.E.

You could also try Ohio Valley Trackwork in Pomeroy, OH.

Rob Gardner

We've used OVT (Bidwell, OH I thought) for various custom-built trackwork including comp bars.
Their stuff is good quality and not expensive. These bars will be made from plate stock, milled
to match the head and toe angle of the rail, with a sharp vertical offset, i.e. these are just fish plates.
Should be quite suitable for this application.