I finally got the OK from the RR Society to get this switcher running. We are deeply indebted to the members here for their advice, a copy of the manual, and all other things that will make this happen.
We located the ID plate for the motor, it is a Cummins NHC250, and I got the manual from Cummins for it.
Based on the advice here, our plan is a s follows
Clean out the engine and electrical compartments
Drain the water fuel and oil
Replace all the filters
Replace the water fuel and oil
Remove the injectors and put a little oil in the cylinders
Purge the lines
That is for a start. We will keep you up to date on our progress.

Sounds like a solid plan to me. Diesel engines are always fun to play with... Haha

Cody Muse

Might add barring the engine over after letting the oil sit for a little while. Makes certain things are loose and happy to turn when you want them to. Also, no better time to go through the injectors themselves than when they are on the bench.

Went over to the switcher today to check on it. We identified the two oil filters and the fuel filter. I checked and they are all available. We are going to replace the entire fuel filter rather than just the cartridge.
Also discussed access to the injectors. We have to remove a plate on the top of the engine, but it is no problem.

Make sure you have several fire extinguishers (at least one CO2) and everyone knows how to disconnect the batteries.

Update on our engine.
We jacked the engine up to close the cracks in the bell housing. We then drilled and tapped holes on both sides of both cracks. We screwed 1/4 inch diameter eyebolts in the holes. We than spanned the cracks with 1/2 inch bolts and tightened them.
We pulled the injectors and poured oil and ATF into the cylinders. We sent the injectors out to be cleaned and calibrated.
We reinstalled the injectors and are in the process of setting them. After that, we will set the valve clearances.
In the meantime, I ordered and received replacement oil. fuel, and air cleaner filters and valve cover gaskets.
I recently bought 2 type 31 batteries to get the engine turning. I had previously continuity checked and marked the battery and starter wires.
Today was the day- I reinstalled the rebuilt starter and connected the batteries. I also hooked up a push button switch to the starter solenoid for better control.
I closed the main knife switch (no sparks) and then pushed the button on the switch. The motor turned freely! SUCCESS!

Congratulations! Video of it running?

Bowmore,
Can you tell us which railroad or museum has this Model 25 ton locomotive?

Ted Miles

It is the Santa Clara River Valley Historical Society, located in Fillmore, CA (Ventura County).
We are right next to the Fillmore & Western tourist railroad..

Need a source for a Motorola 36 Volt Voltage regulator to go with the alternator. The original setup had a 32 volt regulator

Just came up with a plan. I bought a big knife switch to switch the input to the engine from 24 volts to 36 volts. I needed the 24 volts for the starter, but 36 volts to run the relays.
I can charge the 24 volt batteries from the alternator and use a battery charger for the third battery.
The battery bank consists of 3 type 31 batteries instead of 4 of the old Exide 8 volt ones.

Your 24 volt starter will work just fine on 36 volts.

The main problem with running the starter on 36 volts will be the engine will start much quicker with the faster cranking.

As for the VR, a voltage divider is one option. Or connect the sensing of the regulator to the 24 volt point on the battery.

I found out that the 32 volt regulator/alternator will charge up to 38 volts, so once we get things running, it will charge the batteries.
With the help of the compressor manual, I found the oil dipstick and checked the oil in the compressor, which was OK.
I had to install a new starter switch in the cab as some idiot lost the keys. Our next task is to get the idle set and check on the oil pressure and coolant temperature.
Once we get the engine running properly, we plan to put it in reverse and see if it will move. We have a flatcar behind us as a stopper.

As we are getting closer to this engine running, I am looking forward to our next steps. I ran a test on the paint, and it is definitely lead based. I found a company called Ecobond that makes a paint the will encapsulate the lead based paint.
There are some places in the cab that are rusted through at the bottom, probably from years of rain leaks.
I would appreciate suggestions from you restorers on how to repair the damage.
Thank you.