The Trolley Museum I volunteer with is doing a restoration project that involves removing rust off of parts using a wire wheel and needle scaler. We don't want the dust to get all over the shop so I am interested to know what others are doing for the containment and removal of air borne dust particles and how well the set-ups work for you.
Thanks,

Pretty much the best you can do, short of a dedicated separate building, is to tent the work area and at one end place a line of square window box fans that have a furnace filters strapped to the fan. Set the fans so all the air in the work area is sucked through the fans to limit the dust migrating to other areas.

Ideally, leave one end of the tent open and seal the other end to the fans. If you stand at the open end and smoke from a cigarette, extinguished match, smoldering punk of wood, etc... gets drawn across the room you have enough fans evacuating the air, if you don't then dust will escape. If you can't leave one end completely open (fan shortage), just make sure the specific area being worked is between the opening and the fans, and move the opening as needed.

Many operations nowadays are finding success with dry ice blasting. Won't completely eliminate dust but is a lot easier to clean up afterwards as there is are no particulate materials left when the dry ice pellets evaporate, and it's less harmful to the substrate.

I've done this sort of cleaning both hobby wise and when I worked in the metalographic field when we where in dust sensitive situations we would have a guy at the cleaning area with an industrial shopvac sucking up all the dust as it was produced ( got to regularly clean the filter) as far as safety always wear a cartridge filter respirator having spent 20+ years in flyash ,asbestos , coal dust and other toxins these are vital to your health

Thanks for the Information/Help!
Sounds like there are some good options out there for us to consider at the museum.

When dealing with Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) my understanding is that there are different types of cartridge filters. Make sure you use the correct one for the material you are tying to avoid. A particle filter is different from a paint fumes filter.

The cheapest and easiest way is to just do that work outside.

This is not the cheapest option, but as far as I am concerned is the best option. Look into Festool line of tools. The sticker shock can be overwhelming at first but I will gaurantee that you will find no better grinders and sanders with regards to dust collection. The vacuums designed for these tools come in various sizes and have hepa filters in them. A friend of mine who does high end paint and fiberglass work on boats turned me onto these tools. After showing me how his sander and grinder knocked down layers of paint on my old Marinette boat, without having to wear a respirator, and with no dust flying around, I was sold. Unfortunately I don't think they have a needle scaler.

This is a common problem. What other experiences/recommendations do people have with OSHA approved sanding/vacuum systems?

Totally agree with Rick on this one. In my past experience with indoor work, I have used a large industrial fan to at least blow the dust in the direction I want it to go. Tarping will trap the dust but also make it difficult to see anything. I have seen some people erect scaffolding on one side from end to end and top to bottom, then wrap plastic around it and use a blower to suck out the dust. Probably the best idea would be a rent a water/ grit blasting system as seen in this video but it will spray water and grit all over the place

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nucYBS4B0bc

If you have to do it the old fashioned way then do yourself a favor and invest in a good air supplied helmet with a blower that works off batteries. These are Godsends for working with dust, paint, welding fumes, and other particulates. It also keeps everything off your face and in your eyes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tr1LlNo3k8