I went to a tool auction this weekend to squander some of my hard earned money. Underneath some flats of busted Taiwan wrenches I found two battered Baldwin number plates (101 & 102). Having no idea on how to determine authenticity, I went ahead and bought them. I was wondering if anyone out there might know how to determine if they're real or repos. They are metal (and FRIGGIN' heavy), and I can make out a copper/brass color along the edges underneath all the mud. They also have a boss on the back where apparently they were mounted to the smokebox. Also, anyone have any suggestions on how to straighten the bends in them? Thanks.
-Chris


engine_lathe@yahoo.com

> I was wondering if anyone
> out there might know how to determine if
> they're real or repos.

The original Baldwin plates should have the Baldwin shop number (not the builders plate number) stamped on them. This number contains several digits, sometimes a fraction, a letter, and some more digits. For example, #90's plate would have 1242F3 stamped in it.

Strasburg Rail Road
kelly@strasburgrailroad.com

Straighten out the bends in them? If you mean the backward rounding of the plates, top to bottom, don't do it!!! That bend was to fit the side of the curved surface of the smokebox. Perfectly flat number plates sceams "repreoduction."

jim1522@aol.com

> Straighten out the bends in them? If you
> mean the backward rounding of the plates,
> top to bottom, don't do it!!! That bend was
> to fit the side of the curved surface of the
> smokebox. Perfectly flat number plates
> sceams "repreoduction."

Unless they're the FRONT numberplate, bolted to a holder on the FRONT of a loco smokebox. You're thinking of curved BUILDERS plates with the construction numbers. If he had the construction numbers, he wouldn't be looking for which 101 and 102 he was looking for, would he?

And yes, I've seen bent/damaged number plates in my day.

> They also have a
> boss on the back where apparently they were
> mounted to the smokebox.

Clean up the boss and look for numbers stamped into it. For example, a 14 1/2" diameter 2-8-0 front number plate that I have is stamped 10/34E 1994. The 10 means 10 total wheels, the 34 is a Baldwin code for 20" diameter cylinders, the E means 8 driving wheels and the 1994 means this was the 1,994th engine of that class.

To find the actual engine it came from, you need to find someone with the Baldwin class books or post the numbers here and hope someone can identify them for you. I was lucky and Wayne Weiss saw my question on my plate and got back to me. The DeGolyer Library in Texas has the original Baldwin class books.

I also have a 19" Baldwin front number plate that my Dad acquired back in the early '50's directly from the railroad, so it's an original, but it does not have any shop numbers stamped into it. The mere fact that your plates have the mounting boss suggests that they are original.

As far as straightening them, Ron Muldowny often posts here and he is one of the biggest builders plate collectors in the country. He can probably help you out. Look back in the archives to find one of his posts for his email address.

Thanks to everyone for their input. I've contacted Mr. Muldowney offline as suggested. Thanks again!
Chris Zahrt

engine_lathe@yahoo.com

Mike, thanks for the nice words about my collection. It has taken me 40 years to get to this point, but it has been a lot of fun. If my plates could talk, they would have some great stories of where they have been over the years. Chris has contacted me and I will do some further research for him when he gets me some additional information. I will do my best for him and I will see you in October!!!!

.


steamfan@crusoe.net