Have any of you found a difference/preference in using #2 flake graphite vs. powdered graphite to coat your smokeboxes?

I have found that McMaster-Carr carries both forms. Can anyone recommend some different sources?

My last go at doing the smokeboxes was with the powdered form (probably a year and a half ago). A couple of the new volunteers just completed the firebox and smokebox on UP618 using Dixon #2 flake graphite.

BTW, #300 is coming out of GRA Park Monday morning. Transport by flatbed to Vivian Park in Provo Canyon where she'll be set on our tracks for the "deadhead" back to Heber.

Despite all the best intentions of the fine folks that in the past donated the retired engines to the parks for display, I can tell you that the middle of the children's sandbox is not good! Mike Hansen and I spent the better part of a full day spooning, chiseling, vacuuming some 35 years worth of sand that was packed in the tender journal boxes by the "dear little ones" so that the train would go faster!!

Fortunately, we found all boxes still had the journal pad inside (most still saturated with a pretty goooey excuse for journal oil) so the wet sand-to-axle contact was minimized (we think--only full disassembly will tell for sure).

Happy Fourth to all!

sc 'doc' lewis



Heber Valley Railroad
utweyesguy@aol.com

Doc,
last time I needed graphite I found a company that milled graphite into shapes from block. They had a dust collector out back where they gladly filled a 5 gallon pail for me no charge.

When the #197's smokebox was painted we had a "tester" of flake mixed with BBQ black, and some powder also mixed with BBQ black. The flake was able to be buffed up and took on a nice glow, unlike the powder. I would highly recomend using the flake (if you're mixing it with paint at least), over the powder.

Smokebox

"orhf dot org"

On the Yolo Shortline 1233 we found that Case International markets both powdered grafite and premixed one gal cans of lubriplate fifth wheel lubricant for farm machinery which is the right color for smokebox grey for locomotives.We use the premixed which is a nice product, about $30 a gallon.

rstabler@sbcglobal.net

McMaster-Carr used to carry #1 flake graphite. For the silvery look #1 is superior to #2 or any powder. Remembering back a long time, it is also pretty expensive. Make a thick slurry with boiled linseed oil and let it bake on the hot smokebox to give a good coating. The polymerized boiled linseed oil is, of course, the old fashioned base for paints. As it is not particularly UV resistant, coat the smokebox perhaps 1-2 times per year. When the blower line disappears, you have enough of a coating.

Graphite + boiled linseed oil worked well on engines that were nearly always hot, but it isn't the best rust-preventative paint for bare steel.

On S.P. 2472, we first coated the smokebox with high-temp aluminum paint to provide a rust-resistant base layer on the bare steel. (A high-temp primer may also be needed first, depending on paint type.) The graphite mixture is then painted on top. Two coats of graphite may be needed to mask the brightness of the aluminum paint.

- Doug Debs
- doug.w.debs@fcimg.com

Try mixing the flake graphite with the aluminum paint - if you want a darker look, add black.

Dave

irondave@bellsouth.net