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Repainting with Centari
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Author:  Walter Hoffmann [ Sun Sep 07, 2003 7:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Repainting with Centari

I'm looking for any suggestions on doing some spot painting using DuPont Centari paints. I've been working on the Anthracite RHS' F-3's doing some repairs on the noses and pilots. I've finished the primer stage, and am looking to do the final painting in 2 weeks or so.

I've been to DuPont's website to get some technical data on the paint, and I am looking for some practical tips if anyone has done touch-up work before. I may also go back to DuPont and see what they can tell me, but I always like to have informed, experienced opinions also.

The paint has also oxidized pretty heavily since we painted the units 10 yrs ago. I've heard that using rubbing compound on enamel paint is not recommended. Is this true? We'd like to try and get some of the shine back, but I don't want to ruin the paint.

TIA for the help,
Walter

hoffmannwj@nswccd.navy.mil

Author:  David Dewey [ Mon Sep 08, 2003 1:51 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Repainting with Centari *PIC*

Walter,

If you used catalyist in the original painting, you may polish the paint. I would suggest finding a seam or other type of surface break to end your touch up painting. Trying to blend in seldom succeds with enamels.
S'
David D.


Image
djdewey@cncnet.com

Author:  ge13031 [ Mon Sep 08, 2003 6:33 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Repainting with Centari

> The paint has also oxidized pretty heavily
> since we painted the units 10 yrs ago. I've
> heard that using rubbing compound on enamel
> paint is not recommended. Is this true? We'd
> like to try and get some of the shine back,
> but I don't want to ruin the paint.

> TIA for the help,
> Walter

Real, honest to goodness, old fashioned enamel is colored varnish ...you can rub it out if the original applicators put on a decent even coat otherwise you will end up with a difference in color in areas as you get closer to the primer.


lamontdc@adelphia.net

Author:  Pete [ Mon Sep 08, 2003 6:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Repainting with Centari

> I'm looking for any suggestions on doing
> some spot painting using DuPont Centari
> paints. I've been working on the Anthracite
> RHS' F-3's doing some repairs on the noses
> and pilots. I've finished the primer stage,
> and am looking to do the final painting in 2
> weeks or so.

> I've been to DuPont's website to get some
> technical data on the paint, and I am
> looking for some practical tips if anyone
> has done touch-up work before. I may also go
> back to DuPont and see what they can tell
> me, but I always like to have informed,
> experienced opinions also.

> The paint has also oxidized pretty heavily
> since we painted the units 10 yrs ago. I've
> heard that using rubbing compound on enamel
> paint is not recommended. Is this true? We'd
> like to try and get some of the shine back,
> but I don't want to ruin the paint.

> TIA for the help,
> Walter

Centari "in the yellow can" or Centari "in the green can" -- refers to color of labels. The "green can" is a cheap version of Imron, which is a middle of the line urethane. They "yellow can" is arcylic enamel.

Neither is retouchable with a brush unless you're dabbing small spots and imperfections with no brushing. For spray touch-up, you have to paint to a break line, like the edge of a panel as suggested in another post. If you used hardener, a must in both types, then depending on how fresh the coat is, you might have to rougen up the surface with 400 w/d so your touch-ups will adhere.

Author:  Walter Hoffmann [ Thu Sep 11, 2003 12:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Repainting with Centari

> Centari "in the yellow can" or
> Centari "in the green can" --
> refers to color of labels. The "green
> can" is a cheap version of Imron, which
> is a middle of the line urethane. They
> "yellow can" is arcylic enamel.

> Neither is retouchable with a brush unless
> you're dabbing small spots and imperfections
> with no brushing. For spray touch-up, you
> have to paint to a break line, like the edge
> of a panel as suggested in another post. If
> you used hardener, a must in both types,
> then depending on how fresh the coat is, you
> might have to rougen up the surface with 400
> w/d so your touch-ups will adhere.

Thanks to all who responded to my question. I'll let you know how the spraying went, and even try to post some pictures, if possible. If not here, then at the ARHS website. If you use the link below, you can see one of the "before" areas on the nose of #57, right on the bottom of the blue/orange line on the engineers side. The small black rectangle was a hole, but has now been filled, bondo'ed and primered. The spot on the pilot is much harder to see in these longer distance views.


http://arhs.railfan.net
hoffmannwj@nswccd.navy.mil

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