Here's a nice photo of #152 with its larger tender:

http://abpr2.railfan.net/abprphoto.cgi? ... .Ky_57.jpg

I believe the tender is off of a L&N 4-8-2 and was installed for extra fuel capacity for long trips while running over Class I railroad trackage. Although the Pacific is now relegated to the museums rail line out of New Haven, the museum has not put its ex-GM&O tender back on the 4-6-2.

The museum's E6:

http://abpr2.railfan.net/abprphoto.cgi? ... n.Ky_3.jpg

Looking a bit rough for wear. Although the EMD reportedly has no prime movers, a cosmetic restoration would seem to be in order. Anyone know if this is planned?

Finally, 0-8-0 #2152, which last ran for Republic Steel:

http://abpr2.railfan.net/abprphoto.cgi? ... n.Ky_5.jpg

At one time, there was apparently some discussion of restoring the 2152 to service as a backup to #152. Anyone know if this was ever given serious considertation?

Les

Good grief! Why does the majority of rail equipment in outdoor museums look like crap these days? Why do they look like they haven't been painted since they left their last in service shopping?

Rustoleum is $25 a gallon and a Wagner power painter will run you under $100. Go get $500 out of the treasury and give the stuff a down and dirty paint job!

The E 6 has only one prime mover block, and nothing much else. It was stripped to supply prime movers, traction motors, and electricals for converting L&N Alco S series switchers to EMD prime movers back in the late 1960s.

I don't know of any serious consideration of restoring 2152 as a "backup" to 152. She is a pretty worn out locomotive, and not exactly a road locomotive. I can't imagine the pounding the track would take, especially curves.

As for "Stationary Steam's" comment, the museum has been focusing on improving static displays. They have contructed a new cover, and I imagine the E 6 and the 2152 are candidates for this cover, as well as C&O 2716.

It all comes down to manpower, and other priorities, and accessability.

Les,

I think they are in the process to send the E-6 out for a cosmetic restoration. For some reason, I think that Mid America Car & Locomotive in Evansville will be doing the work. This is somewhat old information, plans may have changed.

David Farlow

That's the easy part. Now get some scaffolding. Get some tarps. In some jurisdictions, get a paint booth, or erect a "cocoon". Otherwise, be sure to schedule good weather for your volunteers' days off, whatever they may be. Don't forget the tedious task of scraping/needle-gunning the rust off, and maybe using rust converter. Then there's the primer coat............

I've painted locomotives for pay. Doing it "right" is pretty damned tedious. Even doing it "down and dirty" takes work, and for the amount of work in question it's probably better/more cost effective to use a proper outdoor paint.

Amen! You beat me to it...but painting over rusted metal is probably worse than leaving it unpainted. A good stabilization is not something that happens overnight, much less a GOOD cosmetic restoration.

Most museums are run by volunteers that work at said museum one, maybe two days a week. At our museum, most of the volunteers that maintain the static rolling stock also maintain the old and cantankerous operating equipment. That further cuts the manpower available to do proper stabilization/restoration.

rustolem is excelent stuff! it is the proper paint! It is superior to most paints in its forgiving nature, alone.
No paint is forever. If you do not plan on painting, touching up, and stopping rust again every 5 years you are just fooling yourself

What is the point in using all the money to pay someone to sandblast, primer, repaint and reletter a single piece when the other 20 get nothing

I have proved, beyond a shadow of a doubt to all my car buddies that rustoleum rusty metal primer, without any top coat will out last any other product. (even when said other product is kept inside, on a nice car) I have an 8 year old piece of rusty steel tubing that I brush painted with rusty metal primer and it has outlived the paint on 2 trucks and car that were all painted at around same time. NO Flaking, rust thru, etc. just lots of fade
(in houston sun, no surprise there)
Rust converter is a good product, but can do WAY more damage if used improperly, (hydrogen issues) and DON'T even say por 15. Try cleaning that crap off to weld over! The rustoleum paint has inhibitors built in, in proper ratio. It can be roller or brush painted, and only needs scraping/brushing of the loose stuff.

it outlasted 2 epoxy coatings (professionally installed) on the steel steps at work, too

don't make this any harder or more expensive than it has to be,...just get them covered. and if you do not use airborn paint and sand, the cocoon is usually not needed anywhere. The old paint is more the problem, so if its stuck so hard that it needs sandblasted, LEAVE IT THERE when it comes off paint it (Now)