What methods work to reproduce number boards?

Thanks,

Scott

Could you be more specific as to the kind of number board you want to replicate? Some were just painted, some were cast, some were transparent with backlighting, some were made of letters stuck to a backing - there are many ways but if we tell you how to make the wrong kind it won't help you much.

dave

Laminated glass fiber boards with the number art laminated into them are the most durable but also the most involved to design and have built, unless the locomotive is a recent and standard EMD or GE product. White plastic boards with opaque plastic numbers glued in place were used by many roads for switcher and RS locomotives. Least durable and most vulnerable to breakage are frosted glass panels cut for a separate holder frame with the numbers or the inverse image of the number back painted on the frosted side of the glass. Another version of this is frosted glass stacked in a holder with a metal stencil number panel, that gives you lighted numbers on black background.

PC

One method that I've used, with some success for white numerals/black boards:

1) Cut a sheet of polycarbonate (Lexan (tm) or similar material).
2) Make up reverse tape stencils of the numerals, and apply to the back side of the number board.
3) Apply multiple (5 or more) coats of black spray paint to the back. The first coat needs to be applied with some care, in order to seal the edges of the tape from paint seepage.
4) Hold it up to the light, to make certain that the black is opaque. If light shows through, go back to #3.
5) Remove the tape stencils
6) Apply a dusting of white spray paint (just enough to make it look white in the daylight).

The illumination behind the numberboard should show clearly through the white numerals, but will be fully blocked by the black paint.

Advantages: Inexpensive, relatively quick, and reasonably vandal-proof
Disadvantages: Polycarb will develop a UV haze over time, and the white paint will need to be re-applied from time-to-time.

JR

Dave,

Still working through a PC crash from last weekend. A pictures worth a thousand words, try this.


14" pyle headlight back-lit number board.

Thanks for the responses thus far.

Scott

Lexan in the white frosted variety from the sign makers shop scrap bin with black paint brushed on inside stenciled outlines. I use black sharpies in the stencil. Sign paint seems to last pretty well. For more durability, paint on to the rough side of the polycarbonate, and cover it with a sheet of clear to protect it from the weather.

dave

When I've had numberboards of this ilk apart, what I've found, in order, is the top glass (clear), a punched-sheet-metal stencil, painted black (copper or tin), a sheet of opaque white glass underneath, and then the light source. Seen this on other SW1's and PRR electrics.

Anyone available to check out Wilmington & Western's ex-Ocean City Western, nee-LV SW1 114? I'm betting the headlight numbers may still be original.....

Sandy,

112's original number boards are made from clear glass on the outside, with what looks like some kind of card stock or heavy paper stencil between an inside piece of white or frosted glass.

Scott

The number boards on our MLW S-3, Canadian Pacific #6591, also has black card stock stencils sandwiched between clear and frosted glass.

Steve Hunter
RMEO

Scott,

I've got a couple older loco numberboards that are almost like what you describe.Clear glass on the outside with the number stencil wich almost looks to be like a black felt paper? sandwiched between the outer clear glass and the back pc. of white glass.On one of the older steam loco headlights i have wich has the angled numberboards it also has that same black felt paper stencil but over the years it has shrunk,faded and become pretty distorted and doesn't look good! I'm not happy with it's appearance and just might try making new number stencils to replace it out of some thin metal like Sandy mentions.

If your intent on paint and a stencil then two things that may help. If it is a stencil then seal the edges of the tape with a clear paint first then after this drys come back on top with your black. Or if your up to the job then silk screen the letters.

Testors Dullcote which is available at many stores that sell plastic models is particularly good for sealing the edges of masking tape so there will be no color seepage under the edges of the tape. It is packaged in small spray cans, and other types of paint seem to adhere to it quite well.

PC

Scott,

1/8" White polycarbonate with computer drawn vinyl masking applied to what you what to remain white. Apply a good coat of quick drying black paint (Krylon)to the entire piece. Remove the vinyl mask and you have a long lasting numberboard. On our F-unit of course this mounted behind the outer glass but on the LV C420 it is directly mounted in the rubber weatherstripping.

Rich
ARHS

I've hand painted numbers onto the glass before but the weather quickly wore it off within a couple of weeks. Does anyone know of a generic font a sign shop might be able to make some reverse vinyl stencils from? I'd like to apply a black background with the frosted white numbers for two Baldwin steam locomotives. Making stencils from scratch is fun and all but I have I hard time holding my hand steady enough to make them look classy.