In a pefect world one would want to apply the lettering before clearcoat. If not, then you simply apply it to the clear within the allotted dry time as is detailed in the specs for the product.
If you do apply lettering then clear, there is a "vandal proof" clear available from them. Graffiti will not stick!


Jason

Yes, the Awlgrip distributor is always on the other side of town. In your case the other side of Toronto - ouch. The distributor has much better prices, especially when you flash the nonprofit paper and the puppy-dog eyes.

I took a look at the Delfleet Evolution, and I'm reading tea leaves here because I'm not a paint chemist, but based on the MSDS it looks like it uses the same resin ingredients as Awlgrip Topcoat. That would suggest it's an aliphatic polyester polyurethane, or "the good stuff". The MSDS shows lots more solvent, because it's mixed for spray; I've brushed that but it doesn't flow well.

You want to follow up with trim and lettering later. How are you going to get that to stick to this very glossy polyurethane? You have two issues. First: You can recoat (with Delfleet) within 24 hours, and the last coat will still be soft enough to chemically bond with the new coat. After that, forget about it. Your only hope is a purely mechanical bond, by lightly scuff-sanding the stencil areas, so the surface has some mechanical "tooth" for your paint to grab onto.

Second: you know not all paints are chemically compatible, and you can have issues painting over young coatings. Traditional oil and alkyd paints can take years to fully dry out and polymerize. Fortunately polyurethanes fully cure in a month or so. After that, in theory, you should be able to letter with any paint system. In theory. Have your painter paint some sample pieces you can experiment on.

By the way, do check for compatibility. Past museum paint jobs can be a real dog's breakfast. Your paint system may call out a compatibility test (or maybe not since it comes out of the automotive world). Here is one http://www.awlgrip.com/support/applicat ... %20Systems
I personally think that test is overwrought in our world. You don't need any help finding poor adhesion of past coats. However, testing for solvent compatibility is a VERY good idea and would have saved me a world of trouble on one job.

Now aren't you glad you're avoiding the clear coat? Check out this guy, who doesn't even try to meet the recoat deadlines... he just scuff-sands the WHOLE AIRPLANE. http://www.oxfordaviation.com/aircraft- ... ating.html