I have some pretty machined surfaces that I want to put on a shelf in a dirty environment. How do I protect them against rust, water, etc.?

The method I am using is dirty and a lot of work. There has to be something better.

1) Cosmoline, dirty and greasy, but it works for years
2) LPS3, waxy spray on coating, works for up to 2 years http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612
3) vacuum seal in plastic bags

Jeff

Hello Steven,

I use diluted Phosphoric acid. Its sold as metal prep in automotive stores. But... I buy it by the gallon jug for a fraction of the price at the local big box hardware store. It will dull a bright surface but it will protect it from corrosion for a considerable amount of time and provides a great surface for paint. Its also a great de-rusting agent. Only use on ferrous metal. I have used it to de-rust and protect large castings and many steel parts.

Just make sure your using Phosphoric and NOTMuriatic acid. Muriatic will remove rust (for a moment) but just the fumes will corrode steel and iron very quickly!

Best regards,

Terry

In phosphoric acids, The automotive supply product in ounces ("naval jelly") has a bunch of fillers and notably, a latex binder,, and is intended for hillbillies to use under their $99 paint job that will fail in 3 years. The hardware store product (in gallons) is vastly superior for general metalwork paint prep.

Speaking of that, I prime the pieces whenever possible with a 2-pack epoxy primer. Awlgrip 545 if it's handy (as it is at both my museums), otherwie Amercote. It will need a topcoat if it'll be sun exposed, as epoxies are vulnerable to UV.

On a new part, the trivial amount of rust removal for paint prep is a bother, but a great deal less bother than the considerable amount of rust removal otherwise. Remember all projects at rail museums that have been in cold storage for 10, 20, 30 years, were expected to be in cold storage for 6 months!

Thanks for the clarification John. The gallon jugs of is what you want not the Navel Jelly stuff. Its cheaper and doesn't have the fillers as John mentioned.

The last jug I bought was from Home Depot's masonry section and was sold as "Clean Strip" Prep & Etch". It's used to etch concrete and masonry. I used it to remove rust from three T-head engine cylinder blocks after degreasing and paint removal in a hot lye solution. Before using the Phosphoric acid I protected the bores with a coat of grease.



Another option is a quick coat of rattle can paint. When its time to finish the part or use it you can easily strip the paint off with a soak in lacquer thinner. Use a top coat - primer, unless its a sealing primer it will do little to protect from corrosion.

Fluid Film works good if you can get it over there.

http://www.fluid-film.com/products/

Edit appears to be available in Denmark.

http://www.fluid-film.dk/

Am-soil had some spray lubricant that they sold yeears ago. It was their version of WD-40, their generic, do-all, spray lube.

They claimed they could spray down a sheet of mild steel and leave it out in the rain and weather for extended periods with no oxidation or visible damage.

I always wanted to try it, but have not yet. Has anyone here used that stuff?