sacrificial anodes

Jdelhaye · **Posted:** Mon May 30, 2016 8:38 am

Overmod wrote:

Quote:

" ... emphasizing that they were useing all the same meatle because they learned from last time ...

I have very little idea what this is meant to mean. Can someone define in particular what the 'meatle' is?

1/2 meat, 1/2 metal. It's what you get when you butcher a cyborg.

Jeff

10stewi · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:35 am

Thank you everyone! This is indeed very helpful for the sake of discussion with the other shop members. In the future, I will report back what we do if we decide to use anodes. Here is the link to the Puffing Billy page where I found their reference to it. http://puffingbilly.com.au/en/blog/ Should be the fifth page by clicking older at the bottom and finding the description of the new water tank for the garret.

The shop blog is truly on the same level as Strasburg shop updates and well worth a look!

Overmod · **Joined:** Thu May 24, 2012 1:37 pm **Posts:** 2492

The reference is January 19th, 2015, for those who can 'cut to the chase' by date.

What is said with respect to the use of sacrificial anodes is interesting as it goes considerably beyond what I was expecting:

Quote:

"The tanks will be delivered in grey primer, painted everywhere except the water spaces. [italics mine] Puffing Billy uses sacrificial annodes [sic] in all locomotive water tanks, which reduce corrosion, and negates the need for paint on the wet faces. This is to be avoided where possible, as any failure of the surface finish will lead to fast, concentrated areas of corossion [sic], and flaking paint which has the potential to block strainers, causing interruption to the water supply and failed injectors."

I had not seen any discussion of the explicit NON-use of any sort of finish on the water spaces before - and here is not only a mention of the practice but justification for it. I would like to hear the informed opinions of the skilled preservationists here on the pros and cons of leaving cisterns -- and perhaps other areas on locomotives that might be so protected, including those that might currently warrant the use of potions like Apexior -- completely unprotected except for galvanic action.

(I find I cannot resist trolling some people in this historic[preservation community a bit by repeating a little detail caption found a couple of pictures 'up' from the anode discussion...

Quote:

"These two photographs show the dummy rivets, which the fabricator is in the process of fitting. Attached using studs and a stud welder, this method is quick and easy to use. The tank platework has a mark etched into it at each rivet centre by the laser cutter which profiles the plates, and this is used to accurately locate the studs for welding, after which the pre-machined rivet heads are welded to the stud."

This is how you get that good historic feel for your laser-cut and all-welded tank structure. Makes the 1361 stainless tank fab look a bit primitive by comparison... <ducks for cover> )

M Austin · **Joined:** Sat Feb 05, 2005 1:05 am **Posts:** 488

I have just been painting on the zinc since 1975. Still holding up well with occasional minor touch up. The best part is if you have to tack weld on the back side, it melts to "hot dip" galvanizing.
ZRC Cold Galvanizing Compound

Overmod · **Joined:** Thu May 24, 2012 1:37 pm **Posts:** 2492

See the very detailed discussion and procedure for ZRC in these PDF specifications:

http://www.zrcworldwide.com/images/pdfs/t_spec_full_ZRC.pdf