Use of specialized hardware (odd sized machine screws) was common with these things, so replacement can be a pain. As a last resort – I’ve re-tapped with standard machine size thread as close to the original diameter as possible. It improves the piece as more weather resistant hardware can be used. I’ve seen guys replace steel with stainless or brass, as needed.

Larger-size, sleeve - bayonet-base signal bulbs replacements can still be found at shows or from collectors - just will take a little hunting. IMHO base replacement or otherwise “electrifying” the unit destroys it. So many times, I’ve come across a unique piece, only to find it’s been botched up by some idiot installing standard based light bulbs. Back in the day, a lot of R&D was put into developing bulb and lens technology for these things – that can be part of the preservation story, too. Info is buried in Signal Engineering or similar trades of the day – again, just takes a little digging or networking.

Hope this helps – nice job.

Jim K

Found one today on FleaBay - may asked the guy if he has more. Follow link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Signal-precisio ... SwIgNXkYuY

A lot of the electronics are shot and may get scrapped the transformers are rotten, the resesters seem good but I don't see a use for them. As for the light bulbs I will try to keep the light sockets and as the lights burn out I will see if I can mod the old lightbulbs into something. I have also posted some pictures on the Facebook group ahead of the torch.

What doesn't show in RCD's picture is that these are 3-lug bayonet bulbs, so he probably needs some of these adapters:
http://www.translight-tlc.com/products_adaptors.asp
Looks like they have bulbs too.

I've just started kind of collecting signals. I gave up model trains years back and have a motorcar I tinker with.

The signals so far have been fun. They typically use a 10v/18w bulb that compares to automotive 1156 bulbs. I've been converting mine over to led as it's 1/10 the amperage and I can use smaller and cheaper power supplies.

Parts are out there. I fabricated a base from wood for one of my heads so I could mount it like a dwarf. It works and displays nicely.

I'd paint it either silver or dull aluminum. It has the right weathered look but is clean looking. There are a few signal groups on facebook that sell and share info.

Joe

Here are some update photos


I hope I got the order of the lights right

I jury rigged the wiring with jumpers and other stuff to get it to light so I still need to put in proper wiring.

Here's a great photo of the signal in action in Mechanicville NY:
http://photos.nerail.org/s/?p=235312

Really like that very substantial looking sawhorse set up behind the signal unit in 2nd photo.

looks like the 4 light signal in the distance with the top yellow lit.

This may clue you which single yellow is lit for that aspect.

One odd thread you are guaranteed to encounter in virtually all signal gear is the #14-24 used for all the terminal posts in North American signal gear. They look like a 1/4-20 and a 1/4-20 nut will go on several turns before locking up. Force it any further and you'll ruin the stud. The use of this thread size on signal gear goes way back. The posts on my 1896 US&S round base relay are that size. If you need a tap or die for this size, good luck. They can be made to special order, but $$$$$!!!! So go easy on all the posts and related parts.

If you're referring to standard AAR signal binding nuts and washers, they're readily available. One of many potential sources are provided below.


http://www.lwind.com/aar_terminal_nuts-washers.html

Very nice job on the restoration.

I think matte black on the "face" would reduce glare during sunrise/sunset, depending on the orientation of the signal.

It looks like new "AAR" terminal blocks are still available;

http://www.twincomfg.com/PDF/AAR%20TERM ... 11%20C.pdf

I have no info on minimum orders, pricing, etc.

Also, FYI, #14-24 taps and dies are available here;

http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments ... /1260.html

http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments ... /1350.html

For about $12 each.

With the right size steel, brass or SS rod and the above die you could make new terminal block studs, if necessary.

Victornet has a large assortment of machine shop tools with lots of hard to find sizes and left handed drills/taps/dies. Reasonable prices, a range of quality (some of it is "low end" and not fit for "production" use, but good enough for a few small jobs). I have been a satisfied customer for many years. (Disclaimer, I am just a customer and have no affiliation with Victornet)

Good Luck, keep up the fine work.

Cheers, Kevin

I have found low voltage lighting system bulbs for home use work and are about the same shape/size. They can be found in most big box home stores. I still run them at the lower voltage.

Westinghouse 18S11/SC/12V 2CD | 18W S11 Incandescent Clear SC Bayonet Base 12 Volt Card 2-Pack

Also, looking at the "thread insert"/"Helicoil (tm)" product offerings I see that the #14-24 thread profile is so unusual that they do not offer it as a standard product.

It seems that most of the "AAR" terminal block stuff used threaded rod (14-24) with nuts on both sides of an insulating terminal block to secure the threaded rod.

So, you could try to reproduce the original "look" of the internal wiring with newly fabricated/purchased #14-24 threaded rod/nuts and fresh wiring. Or your could just use "modern" wiring with more common 1/4-20 screws/terminal blocks.

I guess it comes down to just making it functional, or making it "authentic" with the original screw/bolt sizes inside ?

Either way (modern internal "guts" or traditional "guts") it will still be a very nice restoration.

Cheers, Kevin.