Hi Mark,

I think the punches are a poor man's number stamp, so the same key went back into the same keyway. I bet if the counterweight ever comes off again, they'll find four dots on the key, also.

As to the welds, it looks like they attached a block, possibly to get purchase to turn the counterweight as they were pressing it.

At this point, i don't think it would hurt anything to mark across the axle/counterweight interface on both end of the axle, and set two opposing jacks and see if one or the other counterweights will move relative to the axle. Now if they don't, it doesn't prove anything, because a sheared key could be galled into the axle, but if one does move, you've located the problem.

Hey Dennis,

I kind of thought that too but I really didn't see any other punches representing a 1 ,2 or 3 unless I missed them. I punched the keys and jaw clutches on our Wrecker with corresponding numbers . One of the very rare times I used my new punch set. I think a number of people here could figure it out if they could actually examine it themselves in person.
Good Night.

It doesn't matter how it got there, but the fact that a counterweight (or both) have somehow gotten out of tram with 'standard" is obvious. Drop the axle, press them off, measure the other 3 axles to assure yourselves of what the "standard" is (you may find 3 of them in one ballpark), then recut keyways to assure that pressing the cranks back on using them will align them correctly. Avoid hiring farmers to do mechanical work.

The threshing show near me is mostly run by farmers who have done some beautiful Restorations on Steam traction engines, machinery and such ,they seem to do a pretty good job, along with maintaining and repairing the high-tech and very expensive farm machinery.

A few thoughts:


Counterweights are likely to be easier to align weight-down, as they will be unbalanced and 'crank-light' by one-half the rod weight.

I think it's pretty clear that the 'odd' counterweight is the one that needs the first operation, and that a good protocol for jacking up the unit, dropping the geared axle out of the case without affecting the rest of the gearing, and jigging it for both removal and remounting of the counterweight should be made and discussed so there are no false steps or showstopper surprises.

First step is to measure the quarter on the other (idler) axle. This can be used as reference quarter for the other one, since unlike the situation on a steam engine the only real purpose of the lead is to minimize the stress when close to dead centers -- the reason, of course, why you won't want to operate with just one rod installed between power and idler axles -- so doing this quartering measurement to the precision of the rod's eye bearing clearances would be an advantage.

I wonder if the 'welded box' on the counterweight was intended to support it from a forklift or similar arrangement that would allow theoretically good right-angle alignment and horizontal and vertical orientation while allowing controlled 'slide' laterally. Not likely to work, of course, but the kind of thing that might appeal 'in the field' if you thought you had a way to backstop the opposite axle center against ram pressure and wanted to git-'r-dun with no alternative.

Part of the job at this point is almost certainly going to involve cleaning up both the axle and the bore in the counterweight. It should be possible to turn the axle in a conventional wheel lathe if you make up an appropriate bobweight for the crank and arrange to install it firmly so it can't vibrate off while turning. Are there portable shaft-machining tools or devices that could be used to dress the shaft cost-effectively 'in situ'?

Suspect line-boring equipment would work for the counterweight, and if there are the funds, metalspraying is likely the best approach for building up the axle in a way that provides good interference fit with minimal lateral distortion

I wonder if you could get by with a porta-power and some chains to pull the weight off? Anyone have direct experience with how much force these GE engines take? Clean up the bore and shaft, make a jig to press it back on, heat the counterweight, and slide it back on. May not be so bad as some assume...... As long as you don't spend a ton of money on tooling, the worst you can do is have to pull it off to send to a shop with the weight half on/off......

The maintenance manual doesn't mention a force for crank removal, but it does talk about mounting the crank. It says, "Resulting mounting pressure should be 35-40 tons."

In relevant news:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1401008 ... 858313272/

interesting. thanks for sharing

Thought I would share a tidbit that was passed to me today. A 35yr veteran of the shop where the loco was used says a drive rod fell off and spun a wheel causing the misaligned crank. So it probably does have a sheared key.

And now we know.

.

Cap held in place by three (3) cap screws that are supposed to be drilled and tied together with safety wire. From the photos posted so far, it's hard to tell whether the remaining caps and screws are wired together as originally engineered. Without knowing that arrangement, it might be something overlooked?

Not all industrial/professional operations possess stellar maintenance procedures based on my experience, in a similar analogy, not all amateur/hobbyist operations are incapable of producing quality products. For example, imagine tearing into a locked-up diesel engine that clearly had very little time on it only to find the seven (7) round "bands" used to lock the main bearings into position used as "lock washers" on the bearing caps....on one side only....and finding two spun rod bearings and the main bearings rotated in the block, cutting off oil supply from the drilled passages. Or the "locomotive rebuilder" who continues to use THHN for locomotive control wire along with welding cables for high voltage wiring. "Works just as good".......