Regarding our work on former ATSF 1511 at TSR, we did not complete the final step due to lack of time. Total cost for all materials was under $200. The paint on this car was not clear coated unlike most of the rest of our fleet. Even if this technique only extends the life by a year or so, it was worth it to get one more season before we have to repaint our premium parlor car.
Bruce Carswell

Here are some photos of Pullman Troop Sleeper 7256 at the Hoosier Valley Railroad Museum after this procedure was first done late in May. Note the end detail in the first photo. Not sure why this happened, but my GUESS is this; we power washed the car with water BEFORE we started step one. I think that some of this water might have gotten in to spots in the car including window frames, and as this leaked out during the week, it caused these streaks. Also, our local cottonwood trees were "in season" and thus we had a number of these that caught onto still slightly sticky side of the car. These "cottony" seeds were power washed off the car with no ill effects and then HVRM member Henderson gave the car a complete coat of linseed oil (photo 2). The results can be seen in the third shot. This linseed "wash" was done on June 17th. I took another photo of the car yesterday, and will post it forthwith.


Les

Here is the way Troop Sleeper 7256 looked yesterday (July 1st), two weeks after its recent "linseed wash". For the record, the sides of the car are still a bit "tacky". I wonder if the 4th step (which we have not done) might solve that problem. As of this date, we don't intend to do that 4th procedure. Right now the car looks very good and we are happy with the results. For others who have done it, their comments would be welcome.

Les

Does this treatment reduce the adhesion of permanent marker and spray paint to the surface such that any vandalism can be more easily cleaned off?

.

Mr. Anderson - Any mildew or just what it looks like in the wide shot - oxidation? Based on what you see, do you think doing the fourth step, the anti mildew step in the process, would have given any additional life to the surface renewal?

Also, any ideas on my previous question as to whether or not oiling the surface works as a sort of anti-graffiti treatment?

Thank you.

The IRM has 2 cents to add to this faded paint thread. The attached photo is of the south facing side of our UP-18 turbine. I started painting it over a 9 year period starting in 2000. As it was more of a low cost preservation than a restoration project I used tinted commercial Alkyd Enamel Rustoleum, rolled on. In 2004 I could still buy it at the local big box for $20 a gallon on sale. To extend the life I applied a industrial clear coat, #717402. Best adhesion within 48 hours of the last coat. It soon yellowed then after a few years flaked off. Clear coat not worth the effort.
The photo shows the back end of the A unit where the sun has affected the East end less than the South side.
The main reason I write is the new looking spot next to the ladder. This was a test spot I tried 14 Months ago. The Coach dpt. Tested a product from PPG-Flood, Penetrol FLD4. Sold as an Oil Based Paint Conditioner to lessen brush marks somebody tried applying it to chalked and faded paint. Sells for around $12 a quart, did not see gallons. If you rub it in with a rag it will somewhat dissolve the existing paint. My rag cam up yellow with the 18. I suggest cleaning well with a 3M pad as not to embed any soot on the car.
Water thin, it’s coverage will depend on how its applied. The coach guys used a brush but I have no photos.
At the same time I also tried a couple hundred square feet on private car Ely, about a half quart. The end closest the door was repainted but the side along the isle was rubbed with the Flood product. You can see if the paint is too far gone (below window) it looks better but not new.
We plan to do one side of a wood reefer that is pretty badly chalked but now indoors.

Dredging up an older thread....

I ran across this in a couple automotive forums: Has anyone tried the Mop & Glo or Zep High-Traffic Floor Polish trick to bring back oxidized paint? If so, care to divulge any details on how it worked and for how long? It might be another inexpensive way to temporarily dress up faded paint rather cheaply without having to worry about thoroughly stripping every last molecule of linseed oil prior to repainting. Seems to me that MnG/Zep would be easier to remove.

Just curious....

Sunrise Chemical in Reno NV makes a product called dynamite which will remove oxidation and leave a carnuba wax coating behind. I used it on the Charles O Sweetwood at Portola. I think the car was painted in 1930's for the last time. A good buffer is all that is required I have been using it for years with great results.