All,
I am currently working on fixing the floor of a 1920's reading passenger coach. I'm looking for a supplier of Corrugated Metal that allows concrete to be poured on top near South-Central PA or Baltimore. Any ideas?

Thanks!

You will need to find corrugated steel that is not galvanized, most corrugated steel is galvanized for rust resistance. I think zinc will react adversely to concrete.

There's no downside to the galvanization. Galvanized corrugated sheel metal is used all the time to support concrete decks. The thickness of concrete flooring in railroad car applications is pretty thin compared to building structure. The "concrete" is really one of the "lith" products like Tuco-o-lith, without the coarse aggregate normally seen in structural concrete.

If you are looking for this material, look into "type B form deck" which is commonly available from building supply houses. But if you are sensitive to the corrugation pattern, depth, and spacing to match an existing product exactly, that might be substantially harder.

This previous thread on rypn has some useful information about floors and sub-floor materials: http://www.rypn.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32089

We had a local metal shop custom form some corrugated material for floor patching with a latex-modified concrete overlay. For complete floor replacement we have used two layers of 3/4" plywood with rubber flooring.

Scott Symans did a complete floor replacement on one of his Long Island "Ping-Pong" cars using a commercial corrugated substrate from https://www.flexospan.com and lightweight high strength concrete overlay.

Alan Maples
Everett Railroad

If one were to search this site for "MASTIPAVE", you'll find specific references to the flooring system, including CHANARCH, which was the metal sheet base available in heavier gauge than common corrugated stock.

"FYI".

Due to the relative thickness of the car floors, when compared to other more traditional concrete applications, I try to include some hardware cloth or other reinforcing screen, and so far, it appears to have worked, as our repairs have not come undone due to vibration, etc.

G.F.Payne
Baltimore

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Galvanization is pretty straightforward to remove you can either use hydrochloric acid or a lye solution.