Vinyl lettering for railroad cars

robertjohndavis · **Joined:** Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:10 am **Posts:** 2499

Dennis Storzek wrote:

but my work in the model hobby supply field over the last twenty five years has kept me in touch with all the same issues; how to generate accurate art for the historic lettering on objects that no longer exist, or no longer exist in the form we need to see.

Just saying that in passing seems to not be enough. I've never met Mr. Storzek, but I have been an admirer of his work for those 25 years. He's helped those of us who are rivet counting modelers, and I dare say rivet counting is an excellent trait to have in preservation.

Rob

cjvrr · **Posted:** Tue Oct 31, 2006 3:04 pm

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/safety/traffic_control/node_KPJ5QT6NPGge/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_1PGXVVLN9Xge/theme_us_trafficcontrol_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

I know it is a long URL. I work for a government agency in NJ and am in charge of specifying sign materials. 3M's products are second to none in my opinion. Depending upon the material, they will warranty 7 to 10 years. We have numerous street signs made with their older material that are going on 20 years with no excessive loss or fading. Exposure to sun and weather does have a debilitating effect though.

The offer a wide range of different products and colors that would probably fit your specific requirements. And as someone else on the list stated if you have an "in" at your local government agency, and they have the proper equipment, they would probably cut the letters for you if you supply the materials. You can call the local 3M rep or sales office to purchase the material.

Chris

RR_GraphixGuy · **Posted:** Tue Oct 31, 2006 3:55 pm

I remember when this topic came up months ago that there was different opinions about vinyl computer cut lettering vs. traditional ("authentic") painted lettering.

In terms of always taking the "Safe Route", the 3M ScotchLite line and other reflective vinyls are excellent for safety purposes, and IMO you can't get the same results from a traditional paint-on method unless you go to the cost and effort of mixing reflective materials into your paints. (Or you could use fluorescent or "neon" paints. Now doesn't that paint an interesting picture in your mind?)

Larry Rose, AIA · **Posted:** Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:13 pm

Hey Jim,
I didn't see your post til right now. Sorry. I lettered the ATSF 3751 by tranfering my pattern with an old fashioned talcum "pounce" technique then lettered the loco by hand with a paint brush and silver "One Shot" lettering enamel. While I was doing it an old coot veteran of the San Bernardino Santa Fe shops came by and told me he had not seen anything like that for 50 years. I asked him if I was doing it right and he said it was not done anyother way in the old days in the shop he worked in.
LR